# build my own tumbler



## fsperry (Apr 4, 2004)

Have decided to build my own tumbler and I need some info, especially on the electric motor, bearings, etc.  Is it worth the effort ?  Thanks in advance


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## Gunsmoke47 (Apr 4, 2004)

Hi fsperry and welcome to the Forum. In my opinion, having a tumbler is very much worth the effort. Building one is not. Unless of coarse you just enjoy a Grand challenge and are able to except temporary setback and failure with ease.[] Seriously, by building one you will save some money but there will be a lot of trial and error associated with your first attempt. Check out Eddies link here. He has some pretty good info. http://www.privydigger.com/cleaning.htm Hope this helps,  Kelley

 PS. Good luck on your project should you decide to undertake it.[]


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## fsperry (Apr 4, 2004)

Hey thanks Kelley.  I'm kinda handy (in the Tim the Toolman way) so I would still like to try and build one.  I have some ideas after looking at a few available on the market, and altering someone elses unit doesn't seem fair.  I'lll check the link you sent and thank you again for the help ;  it is appreciated !


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## Bottle tumbler (Apr 5, 2004)

Let me ask you some thing before you build one. how much are you going to spend on building one? costs,time, trials.errors.


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## fsperry (Apr 9, 2004)

I really haven't given cost/time/trials and errors much thought.  My nephew is an electrician, I've worked as a carpenter , and I have friends who have a machine shop, so with our "collective heads" together, we may be able to come up with something ;  maybe even something newer, better, improved. Who knows ?  Sounds like a fun challenge.


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## old digger (Jul 8, 2004)

Sure would like an update on "build my own tumbler", how's it gone so far?


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## BRIAN S. (Jul 8, 2004)

Hi fsperry ! 
   Go for it ! You can save some money if you have the ambition and a little know how !
 Ask the forum member Brad S. to post some pics and info on his tumbler .( he built it himself and it tumbles 2 bottles at one time). He built my one bottle tumbler and picked up almost all the parts " Cheap " at the local flea market. Of course he bought the tube and the ends that hold the bottle from a cleaning/tumbling supply dealer. Brad even cuts his own copper with a gadget he uses on his drill press. Copper is exspensive to buy already cut !!!!!!! 
   Brad do you want to help him out and save him a lot of head scratching ?????   Brian


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## flasherr (Jul 9, 2004)

I would definitely like to see your list. I especially would like to see how you cut copper I can get a hold of copper wire but wasn't sure how to cut it. Please share if you don't mind. I have people looking out for parts so I can build mine.
 Brian


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## Maine Digger (Jul 9, 2004)

Hi Guys, I'm in the process of building my own tumbler as well. We have an 'event' in our city called "Spring Clean-UP' every year. Residents can throw anything away on the curb, and the city will cart it away. Those of us in the know, refer to it as the great week-long 'Swap Meet'[8D] You wouldn't believe the things people throw out, I've 'picked' some great bottles (people toss out boxes of those old dsty things dad collected), fantastic antique furniture. etc.,my wife and I sold $470 worth of this 'stuff' at a yard sale.[] But back to the subject, this past spring I picked up 3 electric motors, 2 -1/3hp, 1-1/2hp. They came out of a building being renovated, were used on the heating/circulating systems. They look new and run great. I decided then and there to use one to build a tumbler.  No offense to Tumbler', I just want to try it myself, as said above, the enjoyment is in the challenge.  And I thank the professionals who do it for a living for sharing photos and design tips in advance! I will continue to guide people their way who don't have the abuilty or the desire to attempt building their own.[]


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## flasherr (Jul 9, 2004)

That is an interesting contraption for cutting copper. Does it drop the copper out the bottom? You definitely get an A+ for ingenuity and effort. That is unless you stole the idea from someone else then you only get an A. What is clear PVC used for anyway. I have never seen it except in pictures of peoples tumblers. There are a lot of neat ideas and pictures on the following board http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bottletumblers/. This is by far the best board out there keep up the good work guys.
 Brian


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## flasherr (Jul 9, 2004)

How long are your cut pieces supposed to be. I have never tumbled so im not sure how long or uniformed pieces have to be. Can you use shavings from a metal lathe my dad thinks he might be able to get some shavings but not sure if they are uniformed or right to do what is necessary.
 Thank you Brian


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## Maine Digger (Jul 9, 2004)

Hey Brad, great post! I'm still trying to figure out that wire cutting set up though. Does the drill bit 'cut' the wire into small pieces, or does it make it into copper dust? How do the pieces of cut copper extract from the block, do they follow the drill up and out, or fall out the bottom?  It definately looks faster than the tin snipper process I was using!  I have an idea for something else I'm going to try. I believe if you take the largest BBs available, place them on an anvil, and wack them with a 5# sledge, they might be deformed resulting in scoring edges?  Up till now, I've been using discarded 12/2 electrical cable, stripping it & cutting it by hand. [] I'll give your rig a shot, thanks for sharing![]


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## Gunsmoke47 (Jul 9, 2004)

About 1/8" of an inch Brian. I would think lathe shavings would be too thin and wide but I may be wrong.  Kelley


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## flasherr (Jul 9, 2004)

Thank you Kelley. You have such pretty hands are you sure your out digging lol. They look to soft to be digging hands. Are you and pitfinder (I think that's your partner oops better clarify your digging partner) union? He digs you supervise lol.
 Brian


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## Gunsmoke47 (Jul 9, 2004)

Why thank you Brian. You would really appreciate my heels. Pumice stone followed by copious amounts of a quality lotion of your choice. Thats the ticket![] If you asked Richard (Pitfinder) if that was the way things went down, I'm sure he would be the first to tell you that he finds all the pits, digs all the pits, recovers all the bottles, covers all the pits up, and out of the goodness of his heart doles out every one of my bottles to me. Bless his heart... I guess he likes my hands too.[] Happy Diggin,  Kelley


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## flasherr (Jul 17, 2004)

Just wanted bring this back to life see if anyone else had ideas or suggestions.
 Brian


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## Harry Pristis (Jul 17, 2004)

Hey, Brian . . .

 There was a brief article in OB&GC magazine a few years ago about making a tumbler out of an old clothes dryer.

 Essentially, someone removed the sheet-metal shell, disconnected the heating element, and added some bolt-eyes to the interior of the drum.  He used bungee cords (I seem to recall) to hold the bottles within the bolt-eyes.

 Of course, you can only polish the interior of a bottle like this; but, I admired the writer's resourcefulness.

 --------Harry Pristis


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## Flaschenjager (Jul 17, 2004)

Harry and all---
 This was in the June 2000 issue and on page three under "letters to the editor". It was built by Fred Hunt of Lafitte, Louisiana. I loved the idea.

 I seriously was just reading this and thumbing through this magazine yesterday [][][]. Kinda weird, huh?


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## Bottleman (Oct 23, 2005)

After going to the Shuppâ€™s Grove bottle show and finding out that Jar Doctor wanted something like $3.50 a pound for copper shot it decided to cut my own.  I looked at an earlier post and saw a picture of a guys setup where he used a drill press and a block of steel with two holes in it. I donâ€™t have a drill press so I have to use a handheld drill but it works just fine. I wish I would have started cutting my own years ago! If you get the drill going at the right speed it just sucks the copper in as fast as you can feed it. I am so excited that I am cutting my own copper I just  thought I would share this with everyone.

 ~~Tom


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## dirtflicker (Oct 26, 2005)

I have a question...The way you have your machine set up your drive rod RPM speed comes to 51....but your not driving the tube with the rod....it is sitting on a drive rod and a idler rod....so your actual speed if your drivinga 4 or 5 inch tube would be a quarter of your drive rod RPM speed right? So your machine only tumbles bottles at 13 RPM's?? Thats pretty slow isn't it? There must be some resistance from the drive roller to the tube.....I wonder what the formula is?

 dirtflicker


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## Bottle tumbler (Oct 28, 2005)

13 rpms is not a speed for tumbling.well i guess you could use it if you have a real thin bottle, it would work, but 30 to 35 rpms for square and up to 65 to 80 for round some tumblers go. I do all my bottles on slow any more, same results, same time frame. safer, less noise, less wear and tare on every thing.

 happy to share any thing on tumbling

 rick kern


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## dirtflicker (Nov 1, 2005)

I just bought myself a bottle cleaning machine from the Jar Doctor..... For the time and money it takes to try and build one yourself, you can own a professional grade machine for just a $100 more. Wayne has spent years working out all the problems with building these machines and I am sure he has spent many hours and a lot of money perfecting his equipment. If you try to build your own....good luck....it's a pain in the arse!

 dirtflicker


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## Bottle tumbler (Nov 2, 2005)

hey dirtflicker, now your going to have tons of fun. great to see another tumbler

 rick


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## dirtflicker (Nov 2, 2005)

Thanks Rick....I am looking forward to getting it....should be here on Friday. I must be honest.....I AM PSYCED!!! Now I can clean some of the big money bottles I have dug over the years that are all sick and stained....you will actually be able to see them again for what they are![]


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## DiggerBryan (Nov 28, 2005)

I'm thinking about building my own tumbler and I've been checking on prices on supplies and I'm not trying to be rude but I think you would save a little more than $100.00. The Jardoctor wanted $550.00 for a single canister with 2 speed motor. I'm sure they are GREAT machines but no way could I afford that.


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## Bottle tumbler (Nov 30, 2005)

You can build your own machine if you like. i know some who have and have no problems, but the tubes are a very important tool. I get them from jar doctor, you can only buy the stopples if you like and get your own pvc pipe, thick pipe only 40 or better
 some make their own stopples, but if your not good with making things then just buy them from jar doc. they last a very long time. 

 rick


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## capsoda (Nov 30, 2005)

Anyone know where to get clear pvc by the lenght. [8|]


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## GuntherHess (Nov 30, 2005)

I agree that the machine is pretty easy to build , the stopples are the tough part and worth getting from Jar Doctor.  I have made some of my own from plumbing test fittings from Home Depot but they arent as nice.


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## Bottle tumbler (Dec 1, 2005)

clear pipe

 http://www.harvel.com/piping-clear-pvc.asp

 or type in clear pvc pipe in your goggle

 rick


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## cowseatmaize (Dec 17, 2005)

Clear sounds cool for a short time but wouldn't that frost up real bad after that? Sounds like you'd end up with white on the inside anyway.


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## capsoda (Dec 17, 2005)

Thanks Rick, They sure are proud of the stuff![&:]


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## dirtflicker (Dec 17, 2005)

If the machines are so easy to build, lets see some pics of all your home-made machines![] Do your home-made machines have two speeds (one slow and one fast). You will be using a lot of electricity if your machine only turns at 13 RPM's and your tumbling a round bottle. Lets see some pics of your machines!!!!!! Here's a pic of mine....


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## DiggerBryan (Dec 17, 2005)

I'll post a picture of mine tomorrow but you can't laugh at it. It doesn't look anywhere near as nice as yours but remember I only have about $100.00 in mine compared to $550.


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## capsoda (Dec 17, 2005)

Mine only cost about $60.[] The motor is a flea market special. Notice the inline skate wheels On threaded rod, wooden base and hardware store parts. [:-]I change the speed by changing ths size of follower pulley. Cheap, economical, efficent and it does a great job.


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## capsoda (Dec 17, 2005)

I have some pipe plugs with the outside trimed off so they slide inside the pipe for short bottles.[:-] I can tumble 6 at one time by stacking 2 more tubes on top.[] There are 3 fingers welded on the inside of the bottom plugs.


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## southern Maine diver (Dec 17, 2005)

Capsoda...

 Nice job on the tumbler Cap... I have to say that I have wanted one for a couple of years now...  Just didn't have the money to buy one from Wayne (the Jar Doctor)

 I have so many bottles that need loving attention...  especially after they come out of the water and my "muriatic acid" bath...

 Looks like you got a real handle on this Warren. Hope to see you...

 Wayne


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## capsoda (Dec 17, 2005)

Hey Brad, thanks for the idea, it works great.[]

 Hey Tom, put a piece of pipe around your drill bit and it will make it alot easyer to handle the drill.[]


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## dirtflicker (Dec 18, 2005)

I must say capsoda, I am very impressed!!! WAY TO GO!!!!!! I am helping a friend build one right now. I tried to build my own but I couldn't get it as perfect as I thought I could (I am a wicked perfectionist) so I opted to buy one from the jar doctor. His machine runs nice and smooth, plus it is compact and easy to change speeds. They are expensive, however, VERY RELIABLE. And the product is backed by a lot of experience and knowledge.

 DF


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## tombstone (Dec 25, 2005)

Very nice tumbler.  Would it be asking too much for a pic of your stopples?  Would also like to know if you're using a 1750 rmp motor and diameter of your pulleys.  I'm encouraged that you are using white pvc canisters.  Clear pvc pipe costs more than $16.00 a foot, so using standard pvc pipe from a hardware store will shave quite a few dollars off the project.


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## capsoda (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Michael, Here are the stoppel pics. Plumbers PVC pipe plugs, plastic water tubing, sink connection gromet, spring, and some 1/4 in rod welded in place. It all came from the local builders supply. The motor is a 1725 rpm flea market buy with a 2  1/2 in pulley. I use a 5 in pulley, on the drive rod, for round bottles and an 8 in pulley for square or delicate bottles. It works fine. I will post some tumbled bottle, befor and after pic later on this thread.


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## atdadump (Dec 25, 2005)

Can you elaborate a bit more on the stopple that goes in the bottle mouth. I used the same idea but without the spring loaded idea. I machined a tapered tip with the back threaded to screw on the bolt. I tumbled about fifty so far but i did overtighten one hutch and broke it. Do you have any movement with the weight of the copper in the bottle? I really like your idea with the spring. Can you show a breakdown some time how it's assembled.


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## capsoda (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Steve, No problem. The 1/4 in stainless rod, plastic tube and spring are 3 in long. The gromet is for a sink supply line. Weld the rod onto the stoppel. Slip the plastic tube over the rod and the spring over both. Slide the gromet over the end of the plastic tube.


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## tombstone (Dec 26, 2005)

I found a link through google that allows you to calculate rpm with different size motors and pulleys http://www.csgnetwork.com/pulleybeltcalc.html  []

 By the way, thanks for the pics of the stopples, i think this thread is really getting into details that will help anyone considering building their own tumbler.


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## Windwalker (Jan 30, 2006)

Have a question. Where do you get you wire. I went to home depot and bought a box with 25 ft at $9.00 and didn't get a pound when I cut it up. So is there some where cheaper?


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## JustGlass (Jan 30, 2006)

Hats off to the tumbler builders, Ive always wanted one because I often have large access to old stain dug bottles but Im to cheap to buy one and as far as building one ...I cant even build a dam bird house.  I guess I could sell the stained bottles cheap on ebay to you tumblers....Than you can clean them and put them back on ebay for me to buy...


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## Bottleman (Jan 30, 2006)

Windwalker, I donâ€™t know where the other members here get their wire but I would try going to a local electrician and see if he can help you. They probably would know where you can get wire for cheaper then the big name stores. Also, they probably have small scraps that they would sell you too. Let me know if you find a better place.

 ~~Tom


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## capsoda (Jan 30, 2006)

I get my wire off construction sites where homes are being built. Ask permission and get there before the scrap scavengers. GET PERMISSION, there is a huuuuuge fine and jail time in some states for taking anything from construction sites. My brother is a contractor and I get scraps from him too.

 If you would rather buy it go to the local scrap yard, it will be much cheeper than the building supply.


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## capsoda (Jan 30, 2006)

Hey Steve, Could you machine those tips in different sizes with a centered pilot hole.
 I'd be willing to buy some to test with my spring set up.[]


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## mudmonkey (Jan 30, 2006)

Follow the link to see one that i built from parts from ebay for about 200,but i got the canister from the jar doctor

 http://www.oldbottles.zoomshare.com/1.shtml/Bottle%20tumbler


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## Windwalker (Jan 31, 2006)

Thanks capsoda and bottleman, I never thought about doing that. Been digging bottles for years and finally getting into cleaning them. Finally got the wire cutter down pat and next build the washer.


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## wvbottlehead (Feb 16, 2006)

That's good advice Bottle tumbler,  from now on I'm turning all my bottles on slow speed. My Jardoc machine is about 4 yrs old &  the bearings are shot & the stainless bar is warped. I can't complain though because it's run 24/7. I'm wondering if it would be cheaper to buy the cheap pillow block bearings (any examples of longevity?) at a parts store, or maybe better in the long run just buy an economy machine from Jardoc for $125. I Just started looking & the pillow block bearings online are very expensive. 

 Frank


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## mudmonkey (Feb 16, 2006)

I got my pillow blocks on ebay for 7.00 and are heavy duty http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7588718294&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1

 Here is a link to the one i built with all parts from ebay including the copper.It was inexpensive   http://www.oldbottles.zoomshare.com/1.shtml/Bottle%20tumbler


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## wvbottlehead (Feb 16, 2006)

Thanks Mudmonkey, don't know why I haven't looked on ebay. I see the bar for $10 too. Nice job on the machine .


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## mudmonkey (Feb 16, 2006)

wvbottlehead  got the pulleys for 10 to 14  and the motor brand new for 60 dollars


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## Unidumper (Mar 20, 2006)

Everyone on this thread, thanks for the ideas and direction.  I have my tumbler built ( very similar to Mudmonkey's).  Have built a copper cutter and connected with an electrician who does apartment construction and has been a good supplier for wire scraps.  I think I'll buy a canister from the Jar Doctor before I try to build my own.  Am wondering if someone could help with a recommendation on the size to buy.  Most of what I have currently to clean are the larger patent medicines and smaller.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 Steve


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## tombstone (Jul 8, 2006)

a word of warning... copper coated BB's are not a suitable substitute for copper.  There is some sort of chemical reaction that occurs that causes the canister to build up pressure.  When the end blows there will be black gunk all over everything.  Mine blew in the kitchen sink just as i was about to open it up.  Had to shampoo the carpet, wash the walls and cabinets, repaint the ceiling, and buy new kitchen curtains. 

 On the other hand, I've had some success with plastic bb's.  It takes several weeks to get the bottle looking the way I want, but it does work.  I've got 30lbs of copper wire, but cutting it is a challenge.  I'm trying the drill press but i must not be holding my mouth right cause the copper wants to bend around the bit rather than cut, and if i do get it fed right the drill stalls.


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## JGUIS (Jul 8, 2006)

What about duck shot?  Air nibblers?  Beanie babies have nice plastic beads in them that I use for small neck bottles with clay in them, but I have yet to figure out a good cap system for building a tumbler.


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## JGUIS (Jul 9, 2006)

Maybe I should have read all the posts first.  Nice caps, Cap.  What about using rollers from a copy machine?  They're coated with 1/2" of rubber, and were free.


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## tombstone (Jul 9, 2006)

For the stopples i'm using mechanical test plugs from Lowe's.  These are designed to fit the end of the pipe so i had to grind down the big end to slide inside the pipe.  A friend welded some metal to washers to complete the three finger stopple.  I use these on both ends of the bottles.  I tumble mostly round bottles like sodas, beers, and whiskeys so this stopple has worked fine.

 Many of my bottles are only sick on the inside, in which case you put the cleaning stuff inside, slap some duct tape over the lip, pack it in newspaper and put it in the canister.  This polishes the insides pretty good.


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## capsoda (Jul 9, 2006)

Hey Josh, Those rubber coated rollers should work great. Saves time and you won't have to replace them every few weeks like friction tape.


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## Marko (Sep 6, 2006)

Hi all,

 Stumbled across this site while researching how to clean old bottles we are going to display in our kitchen. I have looked at the set ups and really like the looks of Capsoda's. I was wondering if anyone could share the best motor set up to get the lower 30 - 70 rpm's. The bearings, shaft, etc seem easy to locate, just having a hard time finding a motor whose speed can be reduced. Would a router speed control work? Pullies? Any help would be appreciated. My new hobby will go nicely with the metal detecting that I do. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!


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## Bottle tumbler (Sep 6, 2006)

what needs to be done to get the 30 to 40 rpms is a 2 inch pully to a 10 inch pully
 2 inch on the motor and 10 inch on the drive shaft, i do all mine at this slow speed, fast just makes things to risky and i do all mine in 14 days or less some in 3 days

 rick


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## tombstone (Sep 6, 2006)

i used pulleys to reduce the rpm on mine.  There is a rpm calculator at http://www.csgnetwork.com/pulleybeltcalc.html  the first field (Powered Driver Pulley Diameter) is asking the pulley size attached to the motor, i use a 2 inch pulley but also have a 1.5 inch. the second field (Driven Object Pulley Diameter) is asking the pulley size on your primary drive rod.  I use a 10 inch pulley.  Skip everything else down to (Input (Driver) RPM) where you put in the rpm of your motor.  press the calculate button to get the rpm of your primary drive rod.  Mine (using the above numbers and a 1750 rpm motor) gives me a rpm of 350.  Now clear all the fields and in the first field type in the size of your drive rod (mine is 3/4 which is typed in as .75)  the second field will be the size of the canister you'll be using (i tumble a 4 inch) and in input driver rpm will be rpm of your primary drive rod (350 in my case)  hit the calculate button and the answer will be the rpm of your canister (in this case 65.45)

 This calculator doesn't take into consider slippage, drag, etc.  The actual rpm of my tumbler is closer to 50.  I acquired my motor first and then punched in different pully sizes and combinations to get the rpm i wanted so i would know what size pulleys to purchase.  Hope this hasn't gotten too complicated but this is the easiest way i've found of getting the information i needed.


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## capsoda (Sep 6, 2006)

Hey Mark, I bought 6, 8 and 10 inch pulleys and they cover just about everything. I use a 1750rpm motor I bought at the flea market for 10 or 15 bucks.


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## Marko (Sep 7, 2006)

OK. That is a start. Nice website find too on pully calculations. I have purchased some cheap bottles on ebay to practice with. One more question. Along with the copper wire, what is the abrasive to use for "cutting" and what is best for polishing? Again, thanks for the help. Cant wait to get started!


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## Bottle tumbler (Sep 7, 2006)

call jar doctor. go to www.jardoctor.com
 tell him rick kern sent you.

 rick


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## tombstone (Sep 7, 2006)

http://therockshed.com/grit.html

 1000 grit aluminum oxide for cutting
  right below that the aluminum oxide polish for polish


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## Marko (Sep 11, 2006)

Hey Warren,

 What size drill bit do you use to cut your wire and what size is the hole drilled in your anvil?


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## gglockhart (Oct 23, 2006)

Try McMaster Carr and search cylinders.


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## bottlenutboy (Oct 24, 2006)

i was thinking about building my own tumbler and i was wondering if it would be cheaper to buy one of the pre-made ones from the jar doctor without a motor and find a motor for it or just to start from scratch i looked and it is about $200 for one of the cheap ones on the jar doctor's website


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## stinger haut (Oct 24, 2006)

Hey everyone,
 I have been tumbling bottles since 1989 and I have learned a few things by just reading all the posts about making a tumbler.
 I have had a bad back and anything that I can do to reduce back pain I do. 
 I didn't read of anyone who answered this post talk about their tumbler having an automatic reverse switch on thier motor. My bad back hurt so much when I had to turn the canisters around on my machine, I thought why not just make it so the motor can be reversed by a simple switch. So, I had a friend who did electrical work make it so that my motor will reverse its direction with a flip of a switch.  It saves my back and I don't run the risk of dropping the canisters as much when you pick them up and turn them around.
 I still have the same pillowblock bearing that I bought back in 1989 on my machine. They cost a lot of money then, but I think that I got my moneys worth out of them.
 One more thing about if you use steel bars as your roller bar.  Be sure that you buy COLD ROLLED STEEL, they are made a fraction of an inch smaller to easliy fit on your bearings. Otherwise, you could run into big problems trying to put on those bearings.
 I also use different size pulleys to control my RPM's.
 This forum is just great with the sharing of ideas, information and the pictures really help with showing just how something looks as well as how to make it. I am amazed at at how some of the machines were constructed and the materials that were used to make them.
 Stinger


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## capsoda (Oct 24, 2006)

All it takes is a little good old fasion enginuity. I built mine for 60 bucks.

 Hey Pono,

 Thanks for the switch idea. That will be the next mod to mine this week. The canisters can get kinda heavy when the old back bone is aching from the sudden stop I took while in the AF. Again, Thanks.


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## stinger haut (Oct 24, 2006)

Howsit Warren,
 Mahalo for the mahalo about the reverse switch on your tumbling machine. Its great relief for your back.
 I firmly believe that reverse electrical switches were invented for old guys that came into contact with RPG's and sudden stops in the A.F.
 Hunched over in da islands,
 Stinger


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## capsoda (Oct 24, 2006)

No pra man. Anything that makes life a little easyer is a good thing. Mahalo bud.


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## stinger haut (Nov 1, 2006)

Howsit Warren,
 Hey, I was wondering if you have added a reverse switch onto your tumbling machince?
 I should have mentioned this,  but you know how old age has a way of making you forget. Anyway, I have actually have two switches on the tumbler. One is just the on /off switch and the other is the actual reverse switch. I have to turn off the machince first then I flip the reverse switch. Then you flip the machince back on.
 There is a very small lose of RPM's when you reverse the machine. Its not enough to make any difference with your tumbling. You wouldn't even noticed if you weren't looking very hard for it.
 It really saves your back and it makes it so easy because your not flipping those canisters around.
 Stinger


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## capsoda (Nov 1, 2006)

Hey Pono, Not yet, soon but you did already mention it and it's a great idea. I jumped on it right away. My pains are lower back, hips and legs so I know how bad it can get even on a 4" tube. I take the pills the doc gave me when it gets bad enough. If I'm gona be in pain I might as well be happy about it. Ha. I figure on using a three way switch. I had to move my tumbler so I can install some cabnets at that work station so my tumbler will be out of commision for a while.

 You guys got any straight sided Coke bottles there. Can't recall ever seein any. If so what would they run.


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## stinger haut (Nov 1, 2006)

Warren, that is a good idea about the three way switch. Just make sure that the motor is stopped before activiating the next switch.
 I have never collected cokes. What would be the best reference book on them? I had a chance to buy a bunch of hobble skirt and dark cokes with arrows on them.
 Bad backs are so bothersome. My day is based around my backpain.
 Stinger


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## capsoda (Nov 1, 2006)

Hey Pono, There really isn't one total guide on Cokes. I have Petretti's, one that has locals and one on Alabama Cokes. I have been trying to find a copy of Porters book but no luck yet. I use the inter net alot.

 Know what you mean about planing your day around it.Can get to be a real pain in the ass some times.


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## tombstone (Jan 29, 2007)

Here is a pic of my tumbler


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## tombstone (Jan 29, 2007)

motor is mounted underneath to allow more room up top for expansion.


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## tombstone (Jan 29, 2007)

last one


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## capsoda (Jan 29, 2007)

Hey Michael, Looks like you got a little of every kind of tumbler I've every kind of tumbler I have ever seen. Pertty cool.


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## Bottleman (Feb 26, 2008)

I am just bringing this thread back to the top for new members to see. There is some great information and pictures on making your own tumbler, stopples and cutting your own copper. I found it tucked back 9 pages and the last reply was over a year ago. 

 ~Tom


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## donalddarneille (Mar 2, 2009)

Sure am glad you did! I am just getting started tumbling and this forum has the answere to most of my questions, even a few questions I didn't know I needed to ask yet! Thanks to all who have contributed!


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## anthracite312 (Mar 31, 2009)

Has anyone tried JB Weld to adhere the fingers on the stopple?  How were the results?


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## dcoffin5 (Nov 20, 2009)

looks like some great info in the thread.  I plan to tackle this project myself due to $ issues.  Now I can hunt for bottles in the woods & 2 speed electric motors at yard sales!


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## daeldred (Dec 17, 2009)

Does any one know about how much copper wire in length equals in pounds? I ask, because everyone refers to how much you need in pounds and I want to know how much length I would need to buy to attain the poundage that is required. I have been using glass beeds for a while and the work pretty good. But, I think I want to move to copper for the sake of time and electrical costs. It takes forever with glass beads and that equates to higher cost per bottle for tumbling. I try to save money, too, by running my machine only at full capacity.


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## daeldred (Dec 17, 2009)

I think I answered my own question. This website gives a conversion from feet to pounds: http://www.arcorelectronics.com/uninsulatedwire/Bare_Copper_Wire.html


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## Staunton Dan (Dec 17, 2009)

I've never measured the wire. I just bought a bunch of it when I could afford it and then started cutting. I probably have around 25 pounds cut now that I use for tumbling,  but I still need more. You loose a little bit of copper each bottle that you tumble when you clean out the cannisters for emample so replenishing is required after a time. If you can get it, it's best to get bare wire because stripping coated wire is a pain. One suggestion is when you are digging to save all of the scrap copper and brass that you find. I turn that in at my local scrap yard and get good money for it, right now over $2.00 per pound. I can turn in 20 pounds or so in a 2-3 month period. It helps to pay for the good uncoated copper wire that I then cut.


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## daeldred (Dec 17, 2009)

Staunton Dan,

 How much copper in pounds (obviously it depends mostly on the length of the bottle) do you use for a 4" and 6" canisters? I did some calculations (assuming the canister half full with copper shot) and got 14lbs for my 6"x28" canister and 6.5lbs for my 4"x28" canister. What do you think?


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## xxfollyxx (Oct 13, 2010)

Hello,
 (Im new to forums and this im my first post)

 Im looking to build my own tumbler and I had a few questions. 
 I was wondering if you could use a clothes dryer motor?
 Are clothes dryer motors thermally protected and/or variable speed? Rather than changing pulleys I would like to wire a plug to the motor and then plug it into a variable control like this





 My only issue would be mounting. I was also considering maybe a treadmill motor.

 Any help would be much appreciated
 Thanks
 Travis


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## JUNKMAN1 (Oct 13, 2010)

Go for it its fun and will pick your brain I built one for a 60.00 bucks and about a week of scratching my head and I can turn 6 bottles at a time it works wonderful I will take some pics of it and post soon .  And remember us your head the stuff u need is right under your nose and let your friends at work now what u are doing the will be glad toi donate parts they want to see if you can do it and it will save u a lot of money . I had two motors sitting in my truck one day and I already had the machine built . My rollers are roller blade wheels and they work great.  Just do it man.


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## cowseatmaize (Oct 13, 2010)

> Im looking to build my own tumbler and I had a few questions.
> I was wondering if you could use a clothes dryer motor?
> Are clothes dryer motors thermally protected and/or variable speed? Rather than changing pulleys I would like to wire a plug to the motor and then plug it into a variable control like this


 I commercial drier might be, check that the motor is for continuous duty. Otherwise you risk the possibility of overheating, tripping the breaker or fire. Some motors aren't meant to have less voltage than it states either so adding a variable control could cause the said above.


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## cowseatmaize (Oct 27, 2010)

oops


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## M.C.Glass (Oct 5, 2012)

Have any of you do-it-yourselfers had any issue with your tubes wanting to 'walk" or spin off one end or the other? 
 You're all good leaving them run overnight for a week or two?


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## epackage (Oct 5, 2012)

> ORIGINAL: MCglass
> 
> Have any of you do-it-yourselfers had any issue with your tubes wanting to 'walk" or spin off one end or the other?
> You're all good leaving them run overnight for a week or two?


 How can the tube run off the end with the roller blocks?


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## M.C.Glass (Oct 5, 2012)

Maybe not right off the end, but i could envision the tube possibly wanting to run to one end if things aren't lined up. That's why i was asking.


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## AntiqueMeds (Oct 5, 2012)

> Have any of you do-it-yourselfers had any issue with your tubes wanting to 'walk" or spin off one end or the other?
> You're all good leaving them run overnight for a week or two?


 
 Yes , the tube can move to one end.
 I just put a screw with a piece of copper tubing at the end of mine. It doesnt hurt anything if it rubs against it.
 You pretty much have to run stuff over night to get it done.
 I've never had to run it for two weeks.


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## RICKJJ59W (Oct 5, 2012)

Did someone say tumbler!!??


 Bang!


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## AntiqueMeds (Oct 5, 2012)

yes, we know you are traumatized. Maybe dr phil can help you.[]


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## RICKJJ59W (Oct 5, 2012)

LOL no one can help me its been tried[:-]


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## epackage (Oct 5, 2012)

> ORIGINAL: MCglass
> 
> Maybe not right off the end, but i could envision the tube possibly wanting to run to one end if things aren't lined up. That's why i was asking.


 I don't see how it would matter where it is on the rollers as long as it's still spinning...


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## chosi (Oct 7, 2012)

I've tumbled over 100 bottles, and I only remember one time that the canister DIDN'T run over to one side.  I was amazed that it stayed in the middle and I didn't want to touch it.

 I've never left a bottle going for more than 5 days, but having it run up against the side roller doesn't seem to hurt anything.  The side rollers can squeek if you don't lubricate them every once in a while - I use graphite.  The plastic ones will wear out after a while - although I've switched to metal ones and haven't had one of them wear out yet.


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