# So, cleaning...



## AiXeLsyD13 (Apr 3, 2007)

I see a lot of different advice on cleaning, & what's best...

Somone suggested to clean the inside of the bottle, I get some small stones & dish soap & just shake it around.  Is this sound advice?

Does dish soap work in general?  Which of the chemicals listed in the other threads is best?

I assume I don't want to put old bottles in the dishwasher, right?

If I have paper labels on the bottles how do I clean them?


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## epgorge (Apr 3, 2007)

> I see a lot of different advice on cleaning, & what's best...


 
 Honey, you want to be talking to Frank. He has the CLEANEST bottles I have ever seen. Good luck getting him to tell you.

 Tumbling seems to be the best for cleaning.
 Joel


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## AiXeLsyD13 (Apr 17, 2007)

Hmm.

How do you clean bottles with paint or labels on them?


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## capsoda (Apr 17, 2007)

I use baking soda and a soft sponge. I make a paste with baking soda and water and using the sponge I gently clean the bottle. I have had very good results with this method.


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## LC (Apr 18, 2007)

Warren, I used to take Dupont Polishing Compound over the labels. It did a great job. Makes the labels brilliant as if they were new. Never try using the Dupont rubbing compound though, it is too coarse. You have to be careful not to rub too hard, and I would advise not using on good labels that show no signs of deterioration. I suggest trying it on a junker or two in order to learn the dos and don'ts should you want to try it. I started using it to clean vintage lunchboxes . Again, you have to be careful . Did great for taking the light scratches out and removing light rust. I have not been able to find any of the Dupont Polishing Compound forever. Tried some others, but can not say much for them. I will try your method as well to see how well it works.


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## capsoda (Apr 18, 2007)

Hey Louis, The baking soda works great on the fired on enamel labels and fair on the painted ones. You have to take it easy on painted labels.


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## LC (Apr 18, 2007)

Found that out the hard way Warren with the polishing compound!
 I am sure it will be the same with anything a Person uses. When I used the polishing compound, I would just take a little of it on the end of my finger and gently rub over the label, then let it pretty well dry and buff it off with a tissue. I do not understand why I can not find any of it here in my area any more. Would like to get another couple of cans of it for cleaning up metal lunchboxes. I have over a hundred of them and have quite a few I have bought over the past months that could stand some cleaning up.


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## digdug (Apr 18, 2007)

> I assume I don't want to put old bottles in the dishwasher, right?


 

 I tried the dishwasher years ago to clean some bottles I had. Not a good idea. The hot water was too much for them, I ended up with pitting and some small cracks in the glass. 

 As far as cleaning ACL's, I've found that Bar Keepers Friend works wonders. It is a powder that is made specifically for glassware, and it works on brass too.  It is milder than comet cleanser. (I found mine at Wal-mart, Publix, in the cleanser section) You make a paste with it and a sponge and some elbow grease. It has removed rust spots, etc.  You just have to be careful-if the bottle has been expoused to the sun a lot or buried the ACL could be unstable. Scrubbing could remove the paint.  Test a small spot to see.


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## AiXeLsyD13 (Apr 25, 2007)

Thanks!


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## Bottle tumbler (Apr 25, 2007)

ACL SODAS     or painted milks, car wax... other bottles, soak in 3 gallons water and 2 cups of muratic acid and some dawn soap for 2 days then hand wash, gloves of course.
 But when that fails to remove the stain, etching and scratches, then tumbling is the only way to go, 
 www.bottletumbling.com


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## SergioWilkins (Apr 26, 2007)

Not sure how well it would work on ACL sodas, but I use pure lye (sodium hydroxide) crystals to clean just about everything. It seems to be generally unreactive to everything but the organic dirt and stains you don't want there.
  For rust and calcium stuff, though, you need an acid. Muriatic (sulfuric) is probably the best way to go. Fastest and most effective. Obviously mineral damage is the next step up, and tumbling really is the way to go. 
  Give lye a shot, though. It gets just about everything I've dug good and shiny, except the really, _really_, old mineral damaged stuff.


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