# Want to Build My Own Tumbler! Please Help!



## RngrXlt1

Hello all.  I am a newcomer to this forum and I must say it is one of the BEST and most INFORMATIVE that I have found!!  I've been trying for weeks to come up with a bottle tumbler.  I decided to build my own after finding a motor.  The motor is 1725 RPM, 5.1 amp, 115 volts.  An electrician at work advised me (after doing his gearing down formula) that I need a 24" pulley in order to get it down to 75 RPM.  Where am I supposed to get a 24" pulley?!?!  Or, I was advised to get two 12" pulleys. Running off a 1" from the motor to the 12" and then to another 12", and then to my axle (rod).  I have a wonderful schematic that will enable me to do two bottles at the same time.  The Problem is finding the pulleys.  I've been to garage sales, flea markets, the internet, electricians, hardware stores...I can't find one anywhere.  I think I could find the Holy Grail faster than I can a pulley.  So, if there is anyone who can lead me in the direction of two 12" pulleys, I am forever in their gratitude.  I have so many milk bottles to clean it's not even funny!  Thank you all in advance.

 Heath


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## bigkitty53

Hi Heath,
              Welcome to the forum.Had a look in my basement this morning and found a possible source for you.The old fashioned piston-type water(well) and air pumps I have all have pulleys ranging from 8 1/2" to 13 1/2".You might find 12" pulleys as replacement parts for these type of pumps if the cost isn't prohibative.Or fashion them out of 1" plywood with a metal thru-bulkhead fitting and setscrew to fit the motor's driveshaft.                                                                                                    Incidently,a 5.1 amp motor is going to be costly to run,not to mention 1725rpm is a bit of overkill.Perhaps your electrician friend can install a rheostat (dimmer switch) to your motor to tone it down a tad.I'm no electrician but I don't think running an electric motor at low rpm shortens it's life as it does an internal combustion engine.Check with your friend.

 Hope this helps and good luck!

 KAT


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## RngrXlt1

Kat,
 I was successful today.  I got in touch with the local Grainger Industrial Supply store.  They were able to provide me with two 12" pulleys.  Couple more pieces and I'm ready to start assembling.  I also have to get oxides and cut soem copper.  Know anywhere to get oxides?  I also hear that you have to add water to the oxide powder before you tumble.  Is this true?  And if so, how much water do you add?  Enough to make it similar to pancake batter?  I'll keep posting my progress as it comes together.  In regards to my motor's run time being costly...I'm gonna run an extension cord over to the neighbor's outside patio socket.  LOL.  Talk to you soon.

 Heath


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## Gunsmoke47

http://www.jardoctor.com

 Heath, go to this site and Wayne can answer all your questions as well as sell you anything you need. Hope this helps, Kelley


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## RngrXlt1

Kelley,
 Thank you for the link.  However, every time I try to get into that site, I keep getting an error that staes the site is password protected.  I already have Adobe but still cannot get in.  I sent him an e-mail directly and he got back with me.  Supposed to send me a pamphlet on his items and supplies.  On a lighter note...I picked up my 12" pulleys today.  What a relief to finally have them in my hand.  I don't know about others...but I had one heck of a time trying to find them.  Now I need to get some pillow blocks that will allow a 5/8" rod to fit.  Preferably one with set screws.  Maybe sometime after this coming Friday.  The wife only allows me to spend so much per week on t his project. LOL.  At this rate, I figure it'll be mid December by the time I get it done.  Hey...anyone need a Christmas gift? Ha ha ha.  God Bless.

 Heath


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## Gunsmoke47

Hey Heath, I am not familiar with your design but I am puzzeled at the need for two 12" pullys? You are correct that your motor needs to be 1725 rpm. It also needs an internal shut off so as not to overheat and catch something on fire while your asleep![] You also need to turn rectangle and square bottles at a slower speed than 60 rpm. 45 rpm is a good speed for these. I have taken a couple of pic's of my tumbler in case it might give you some ideas with your design. Best of luck with your project, and Happy Diggin,  Kelley[]


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## Gunsmoke47

The second:


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## RngrXlt1

Kelley,
 Thank you once again.  The idea for two 12" Pulleys came from an electrician at work.  He said that in order to gear my motor down to about 75 RPM I would need to run a 1" pulley from the motor to a 12" pulley.  Then from the same 12" pulley, add another 1" pulley to the same rod and run that to another 12" pulley.  But from looking at your pics, I see that my design is somewhat on the right track.  Can you advise me what the pulley sizes are on yours.  I see what looks like a 1" pulley on the motor.  That in turn goes to a 12" pulley...but what sizes are the other ones?  And is that reason why you have two on the same rod for a lower RPM?  Which ones, if that is the case, run higher RPM's and lower RPM's?  Sorry for all the questions.  But I'm glad all this research and help your offering is paying off before I get it built.

 Heath


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## Gunsmoke47

Hey Heath,  my pully sizes are as follows: Motor- 1 1/2"  Large pully- 10" The other two sizes are 3 1/2" and 2". Yes that is exactly the reason for 3 pullys on the drive shaft and 2 pullys on the machine shaft. If you turn them with the way mine is set up in the pic, (3 1/2" driving the 2") it will turn the bottles at the higher speed. 2" driving the 3 1/2" will turn slower. Hope this helps and good luck,  Kelley


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## RngrXlt1

Kelley,
 Thanks again for the advice on those pulley sizes.  I really appreciate it.  I scored some pillow block bearings the other day.  Had a hard time finding them at a good price.  Finally found them on eBay.  $6.00 apiece.  Cast iron housing, 2 set screws and a grease nipple.  Here is the site address in case anyone wants it: http://stores.ebay.com/BEARINGS-AND-ROLLER-CHAIN_Pillow-Block-Bearing
 The guy you want to talk to, if you e-mail, is Kevin.  Let him know what size you want and how many you need.  He'll treat you extremely well.  Thats all I have for now.  Talk to you soon.

 Heath


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## JarDoctor

Just wanted to add that the machine Kelley posted is one of mine.  I think most people who have purchased equipment and/or supplies from us are very happy.
 Please feel free to contact me for any questions or issues with machines/supplies you might have.
 Thanks, Kelley.
 Wayne


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## Pontiled

Quick comment...  Wayne produces a top-quality unit and the price is very reasonable!

 (Hi Wayne)


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## flasherr

I want to try to build my own tumbler. But I may end up buying one of jardoctors units. I know this much about him. I see his name on several other boards and I have never hard a single bad word from anyone. he always seems to go out of his way, even if hes not profiting from it at all. SO he must be a stand up kind of guy.
 OK, now my question. Can you used a treadmill motor or a ceiling fan motor to make a tumbler? They are both variable speeds. I know a ceiling fan is made to run long periods but not sure about a treadmill. if nothing else I think you might be able to salvage some parts off a treadmill. People pay big bucks for them new but hardly ever pay much for a barley used one. Just an idea i look forward to hearing some feed back
 Brian


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## RngrXlt1

Brian,
 I never really thought about using a ceiling fan motor.  The variable speed is definitely a plus.  But I would have a hard time figuring out what size pulleys to use.  I'm definitely not the right guy to give an answer to that question.  I'm new to this whoe tumbling business.  I've heard that the Jar Doctors machines are pretty good.  I got a list of machines and prices from him, but I like the challenge of building one on my own.  I've been taking my time and so far it's coming out pretty good.  As soon as it's done, I'll take a couple of pics and post them here.  I do plan on buying oxides and carbides from Wayne.  I've checked around and I haven't been able to find anyone with better prices for the chemicals.  On another note...I found a way to make stopples.  The cone style and the bottom style.  I spent $15.00 on materials and made three cone stopples.  Not too bad.  I tried them out in a piece of scrap PVC with a generic bottle and they worked quite well.  If anyone would like to know how I did it...let me know and I'll be glad to help.  Talk to you all soon.

 Heath


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## RngrXlt1

I also forgot to add one thought...I'm using 5/8" rods for my tumbler.  These should be okay to use wouldn't they.  I sure hope so...I'd hate to start all over again and lose what I already have invested.  Well...maybe I can use them for a small bottle tumbler...such as inks, small milks, soda Hutch's...etc.


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## cazz1310

[]I have found the preceding exchange of information very interesting - *I'd* like to know how to make stopples! Also, I gather the 75rpm refers to the cannister?
 Bryan.


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## RngrXlt1

Bryan,
 Making stopples has been easier than I thought.  Here are the items that I use.

 1.) Mechanical test plug with a wing nut (plumbing section of hardware stores)
      These have to be the same diameter as your PVC canister.  3", 4", 5" and so on.

 2.) Conical cups (cone shape)..Such as the type you see next to a water cooler.

 3.) Silicone Sealant in a tube.

 4.) Rubber Sealant in a tube.

 5.) Caulking gun for the Silicone and Rubber Sealant.

 6.) Cooking spray...a good expample would be 'Pam'.

 Now we are ready to go.  All you have to do is take your time and you'll be okay.  The first thing you do is spray a light coat of cooking spray into the cone shaped cup.  After that you take the silicone sealant and caulk it into the conical cup.  I usually set the cup in the top of a wide bottle to allow it to set straight.  This will take several days for the silicone to actually set.  I waited about a week before I took mine out of the cup.  Once the silicone sets, it has a hard/soft feel to it.  Once taken out of the conical cup, you now have a silicone shaped cone.  This will be the tip of the stopple that goes in the bottle top.  The next thing you do is take the side that is OPPOSITE the side of the wing nut and place rubber sealant in the middle of it.  Take your cone and put rubber sealant on the base of the cone.  Center the cone on the disc and allow time to dry.  Usually a couple of days.  When the rubber sealant dries your stopple will be complete.  Remember...the side of the wing nut is the side that will be facing out when applied in the PVC canister.  On another note...JarDoctor.com (Wayne) has stopples.  His look awesome.  If you write to him, he'll send you a pamphlet with tumblers, oxides, carbides, copper and stopple prices.  I made mine because I like the challenge.  I do plan on buying copper and oxides off of him.  You can't beat his prices for those chemicals.  I hope this will help in you endeavors.  Talk to you soon.

 Heath


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## atdadump

Hi!
          I'm just kind of sitting on the side for a few weeks reading the posts and replies. I built my own tumbler and I hear you talking about using a fan motor to drive the machine.  I'm not saying it won't work, but keep in mind the weight from the copper is quite heavy, And how many tubes did you want to turn at once. I purchased a motor with a gear reducer on it from e-bay, So my gearing is different than the Jar Doctors. As soon as I figure out how to post  pics, I'll put some on for ideas. Maybe it will help someone out. The downfall for my tumbler is i have to change pulleys to slow down the speed. I mainly turn sodas and round stuff so this is not an issue for me.


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## cazz1310

Thanks Heath, I'm pleased to be a beneficiary of your ingenuity - sounds easy. Do you have a similar tip on the manufacture of fingered stopples? 
 I have previously purchased a set of stopples from the jar doctor - excellent quality.
 However, I am looking to make stopples 'on the cheap' as I have very few bottles that require large diameter stopples and as I live down under, bear considerable freight costs from the US.

 Bryan


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## RngrXlt1

Bryan,
 I've been giving the bottom stopples quite a bit of thought.  I do not own any type of welder, so welding my own fingers (metal rods) on the mechanical test plug would be out of the question.  I do have an idea.  Now bear with me...I have yet to try it.  Here's my theory...a thick piece (about 1/4 inch or smaller) of plexiglass cut into the shape of a triangle.  Using the rubber sealant place one of the flat ends on the mechanical test plug so that the slope of the trangle will face the inside perimeter of the test plug.  Do this 3 or 4 times all the way around...depending on the shape of the bottle base, ie. square or round.  Now the next question I had about this theory is about the edges of the plexiglass scratching the glass of the bottle.  I think that If you use the rubber sealant (here we go with that wonderful compund again) and place a caulk line in the slope of the triangle from one end to the other, there might be enough protection.  I hope you've followed this.  Kinda hard to explain without pictures.  Wayne...If you're reading this, can you give us your advice?  Do you think it will work?  Talk to you all soon.

 Heath


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## dpbottleman

I fill my bottle a little over half full of copper pills, add 2 level spoons of tumbling powder, and water until its about 3/4" over the copper. Put bottle in clear canister, add copper to about 1/2 to 3/4 over bottle, add 2 spoons of powder, add water until about 3/4" over copper, and tumble at 55 rpm for 2 days, inspect, and if needs more, tumble for 2 more days. I tuble hutch, twitchell, baltimore loop, and crown tops, and all are from 2 to 4 days. I yuse a rock tumbling powder I get from Ft Worth, Texas for about $5.00 a lb. I DO NOT USE ANY PRE-CLEANING POWDER, JUST THE POLISHING POWDER, AND THE RESULTS ARE FANTASTIC. See pis if it up loads, if not email me and I will send pics, and also give the Co. and ph no where I buy my rock tumbling powder, thanx, Doyle


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## dpbottleman

P.S. my email is dpbottleman@yahoo.com 2 pics of before and after.


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## dpbottleman

This is pic of before tumbling.


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## idigjars

Nice before and after pics.


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## walkingstick

Digger Odell sells plans for bottle tumblers so you can build your own.
 Try this link. http://www.bottlebooks.com/cleaned.htm


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## tombstone

Two twelve inch pulleys off a 1725 rpm motor will turn too slow (if at all).  Don't know how your friend calculated but there is a calculator for this at http://www.csgnetwork.com/pulleybeltcalc.html  Don't forget the the final calculation, your 5/8 rod driving a 4 inch canister.  Tumbler I'm working on uses a 1.5 inch pulley to a 10 inch pulley mounted on a 5/8 drive rod covered by plastic tubing which makes the rod about one inch.  It turns an empty 4 inch canister at about 40 rpm.  From what I've read here that is a little too fast for the small bottles and a little too slow for the big ones, but that just means it will take a bit longer to get the results i want.


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## tombstone

I should add that this is my first tumbler, I'd never even heard of one till i read about it on this board a couple months back, so don't take anything I say on the subject as being anything more than my opinion based on limited experience.


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