# Tumbling an iron pontil



## opmustard (Mar 2, 2021)

I want to tumble a soda with intact iron on the pontil.
My question is I want to first run 1200 grit, then polish the bottle.
Can you successfully run the 1200 cutting grit with out removing the iron? 
How?
Thank you,
opmustard


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## ROBBYBOBBY64 (Mar 2, 2021)

opmustard said:


> I want to tumble a soda with intact iron on the pontil.
> My question is I want to first run 1200 grit, then polish the bottle.
> Can you successfully run the 1200 cutting grit with out removing the iron?
> How?
> ...


If you have a system that clamps the bottle centering it in the tube, you can put a rubber ball. Some use duct tape for extra protection. I like using clear siliconed and a tin can lid cut to fit the bottom. That worked really well.
ROBBYBOBBY64.


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## Dewfus (Mar 2, 2021)

I bought a duel rock tumbler now I have to figure out how to make a tube


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## opmustard (Mar 2, 2021)

ROBBYBOBBY64 said:


> If you have a system that clamps the bottle centering it in the tube, you can put a rubber ball. Some use duct tape for extra protection. I like using clear siliconed and a tin can lid cut to fit the bottom. That worked really well.
> ROBBYBOBBY64.


I have used a rubber ball with some success.
However, just using the rubber ball doesn't always work. I like your idea of the clear silcone. How do you remove the silcone when your done with tumbling. I have had problems in the past with losing the iron using other methods. Do you use a rubber ball with the silcone or ?
What type of silcone do you use. How much do you apply to the pontil? How long do you tumble your bottle after applying the silcone?
I have a JarDoctor system with the stopples and canisters. I bought this new system about 10 years ago and have never used it. I had a system that I had made (based on the same principle as JarDoctor's) It worked very well, but shipping from Hawai'i was too hard, gave it to a friend.
What type of a tumbling system do you have?
As always, thanks,
opmustard


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## opmustard (Mar 2, 2021)

Dewfus said:


> I bought a duel rock tumbler now I have to figure out how to make a tube


I bought sch 80 PVC pipe(every size  of pipe from 3" to 10") and cut each piece to its correct size as needed according to the bottle size and to fit my tumbling machine.
Bought my stopples (to hold the bottle in place) from JarDoctor. 
Bought # 12 or # 14 scrap copper or just found copper wire and cut it to size, really hard on the hands.
All my cutting grits and polish was again bought from JarDoctor.
Happy tumbling (really)
opmustard


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## hemihampton (Mar 2, 2021)

I'd recommend 1500 grit silicone carbide myself.


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## ROBBYBOBBY64 (Mar 3, 2021)

opmustard said:


> I have used a rubber ball with some success.
> However, just using the rubber ball doesn't always work. I like your idea of the clear silcone. How do you remove the silcone when your done with tumbling. I have had problems in the past with losing the iron using other methods. Do you use a rubber ball with the silcone or ?
> What type of silcone do you use. How much do you apply to the pontil? How long do you tumble your bottle after applying the silcone?
> I have a JarDoctor system with the stopples and canisters. I bought this new system about 10 years ago and have never used it. I had a system that I had made (based on the same principle as JarDoctor's) It worked very well, but shipping from Hawai'i was too hard, gave it to a friend.
> ...


I cut a tin can lid and silicone in place. Do not get the silicone on the pontil only the base edge. Roughen up the can with sandpaper. I use a 12 inch quick clap to hold until dry. The silicone comes off easily enough. I pick and pull most off with my finger nails. A razor blade or scouring pad should work.I have a home made tumbler. A Frankensteined harbor freight. I can't do big tall bottles. Only up to 8" tall the tube is only 4" so I am limited. I never thought about tumbling seriously. I would just bite the bullet and get a more professional unit. I just don't tumble that much. 
ROBBYBOBBY64. 

This picture is just to show you how I do it. This is a bottle I used just for example.


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## opmustard (Mar 3, 2021)

ROBBYBOBBY64 said:


> I cut a tin can lid and silicone in place. Do not get the silicone on the pontil only the base edge. Roughen up the can with sandpaper. I use a 12 inch quick clap to hold until dry. The silicone comes off easily enough. I pick and pull most off with my finger nails. A razor blade or scouring pad should work.I have a home made tumbler. A Frankensteined harbor freight. I can't do big tall bottles. Only up to 8" tall the tube is only 4" so I am limited. I never thought about tumbling seriously. I would just bite the bullet and get a more professional unit. I just don't tumble that much.
> ROBBYBOBBY64.
> 
> This picture is just to show you how I do it. This is a bottle I used just for example.


Looks like it would work, I'll try it.
Thanks for the detailed information.
If you ever want build yourself a larger tumbling machine, let me know.
I've build over 10 machines.
opmustard


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## opmustard (Mar 3, 2021)

hemihampton said:


> I'd recommend 1500 grit silicone carbide myself.


I agree 1,500 grit is a good safe grit for cutting. I will use 1,200 or 1,000 grit on inside of a bottle to speed the cutting process and sometimes quickly on the outside (rarely though. I usually use duct tape to protect the embossing or any bubbles.)
opmustard


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## brent little (Mar 9, 2021)

Been tumbling bottles for a long time. I usually tape the pontil and thats it. DONT overthink it. Pontils are very tough. I did one and forgot to cover it and nothing happened it looked fine.


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## opmustard (Mar 9, 2021)

brent little said:


> Been tumbling bottles for a long time. I usually tape the pontil and thats it. DONT overthink it. Pontils are very tough. I did one and forgot to cover it and nothing happened it looked fine.


What type of tape do your use? Where do you put the tape on the bottle (on the pontil directly, just on the bottom of bottle, not touching the iron, etc?
I used to tumble my bottles, my friends, and even other collectors whom I didn't even know. Had a really bad seizure and lost most of memory about 10 years ago. I do remember tumbling a pontiled Fields, just was running a cutting grit on the inside, taped the lip so no grit would get out to the outside of the bottle. I lost half of the iron on the bottle, no cutting grit came out of the inside. I have quite a few bottles that need tumbling from before I had my seizure.
Thanks for your post and would appreciate any tips on tumbling.
opmustard


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## ROBBYBOBBY64 (Mar 14, 2021)

opmustard said:


> Looks like it would work, I'll try it.
> Thanks for the detailed information.
> If you ever want build yourself a larger tumbling machine, let me know.
> I've build over 10 machines.
> opmustard


Where did you source the motors?
ROBBYBOBBY64.


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## ROBBYBOBBY64 (Mar 14, 2021)

ROBBYBOBBY64 said:


> Where did you source the motors? I bought a bunch of the bearings, bushings and rods to make one. I went with 3/4 inch. Never got as far as to get a motor. Still have to make the frame. What did you use for your cylinders? I was thinking just get the jar doctor ones. Thanks for any information you can provide.
> ROBBYBOBBY64.


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## opmustard (Mar 14, 2021)

ROBBYBOBBY64 said:


> Where did you source the motors?
> ROBBYBOBBY64.


I bought most of my motors from a company named Harbor Freight with a reverse setting.
I did buy one from a small company in Greenville, NC when I lived there. They added a reverse to the motor.
Don't sell youreslf on HP (I wouldn't go under 1/2 HP.) I used 1 HP on all the machines that I build for friends. The reason is that it can give the you option of adding more rollers thus more canisters can be used at once.
As far as canisters. I would go to your irrigation store and buy sch 80 round pvc pipe, you save a lot of money and you can custom cut the canisters to fit your tumbling needs. If you want it in clear, they probably don't carry it.
Stopples I would buy from Jar Doctor and the all the polishes & cutting grits.
What type of caulking do you use for the pontil protector??????????????????????????
opmustard
p.s. I am not receiving all your emails.


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## ROBBYBOBBY64 (Mar 14, 2021)

opmustard said:


> I bought most of my motors from a company named Harbor Freight with a reverse setting.
> I did buy one from a small company in Greenville, NC when I lived there. They added a reverse to the motor.
> Don't sell youreslf on HP (I wouldn't go under 1/2 HP.) I used 1 HP on all the machines that I build for friends. The reason is that it can give the you option of adding more rollers thus more canisters can be used at once.
> As far as canisters. I would go to your irrigation store and buy sch 80 round pvc pipe, you save a lot of money and you can custom cut the canisters to fit your tumbling needs. If you want it in clear, they probably don't carry it.
> ...


Clear silicone around the edge of the lid.
ROBBYBOBBY64.


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## opmustard (Mar 15, 2021)

ROBBYBOBBY64 said:


> Clear silicone around the edge of the lid.
> ROBBYBOBBY64.


Please email me when you make your new tumbler.
Please send pictures.
opmustard


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## brent little (Mar 15, 2021)

Tape the pontil over with ,usually duct tape works. I use  3/4 teaspoon on the inside and 11/2 on the outside. I bought my machine from Jar Doctor and its been running perfect for 5 years. He is without a doubt the best to deal with. The motor runs at one revolution per second so if you do the math you are 3600 per hour and 86400 per day. I usually tumble early squats so its around three days or 259200 revolutions per bottle. You can switch the tube from end to end for even polishing. I get excellent results with early bottles.Its a learning curve for sure,newer stuff like flint glass I have found is much harder to get good results. I dont collect crown tops so my experience is really with old green glass in the 1850-80 range. Hope this helps ,B


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## ROBBYBOBBY64 (Mar 15, 2021)

opmustard said:


> Please email me when you make your new tumbler.
> Please send pictures.
> opmustard


I have had the parts for 3 years now so it isn't a rush. When I do I will definitely show it off. I worked in a machine shop a couple of years making huge laminating machines not much difference than a tumble but they were the size of a large van. We made the biggest one they ever made when I was there. They usually ship them out by truck. This one was way too heavy to life even for a flatbed tow truck. Just lifted the from end of the truck over and over again. They finally gave up. My day was done so I left. I still don't know how they got that machine shipped. I should be alright. Thanks for all your help. I was worried about using a harbor freight motor. I burned out every tool motor I get from them. I bought a grinder from them. I left my Bosch on another job. Brand new I cut through a tile floor to do a rip out. It sizzles and smoked up after making a 15 foot long cut. My Bosch grinder has been with me now going on 10 years and is a beast. This is just a tumbler so maybe the motor will last. I am good but hard on my tools. I wonder if a laminating machine can be turned in to a tumbler. Basically the same thing. I put a link to smaller laminating machines. 
ROBBYBOBBY64.





						Roll Laminator Machines from Lamination Depot
					

Buy a laminating machine for your school, office, print shop, or commercial environment from Lamination Depot. These machines are ideal for industrial use!




					www.laminationdepot.com


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## brent little (Mar 15, 2021)

The motor on this tumbler justs looks to me to be a furnace blower motor. He has slowed down the revolutions with a pully. its very reliable and it has great results. Bottle tumbling is by no means an exact science I still have bottles that do not come out the way i would like them every time. Every bottle has its own history and stain issues.That machine you are building is pretty much the same basic set-up. I think I paid something like 850.00,all in shipped to my door. Jar Doctor is a very nice guy to deal with and very straight up. NO BS.


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## ROBBYBOBBY64 (Mar 15, 2021)

brent little said:


> Tape the pontil over with ,usually duct tape works. I use  3/4 teaspoon on the inside and 11/2 on the outside. I bought my machine from Jar Doctor and its been running perfect for 5 years. He is without a doubt the best to deal with. The motor runs at one revolution per second so if you do the math you are 3600 per hour and 86400 per day. I usually tumble early squats so its around three days or 259200 revolutions per bottle. You can switch the tube from end to end for even polishing. I get excellent results with early bottles.Its a learning curve for sure,newer stuff like flint glass I have found is much harder to get good results. I dont collect crown tops so my experience is really with old green glass in the 1850-80 range. Hope this helps ,B


I bought a bunch of the things I needed to make a tumbler as I mentioned above.  I also bought this heavy duty speed control. God knows if it will work. What i do know is it won't with brushless or soft/slow start motors. Jar doctor has always been a possibility. I just would like to build my own if I can ever get around to it. Thanks for the jar doctor review. I have heard only good things about the products and service. Second to none. Not that there is any competition. Top notch company and product.
ROBBYBOBBY64


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## opmustard (Mar 15, 2021)

brent little said:


> Tape the pontil over with ,usually duct tape works. I use  3/4 teaspoon on the inside and 11/2 on the outside. I bought my machine from Jar Doctor and its been running perfect for 5 years. He is without a doubt the best to deal with. The motor runs at one revolution per second so if you do the math you are 3600 per hour and 86400 per day. I usually tumble early squats so its around three days or 259200 revolutions per bottle. You can switch the tube from end to end for even polishing. I get excellent results with early bottles.Its a learning curve for sure,newer stuff like flint glass I have found is much harder to get good results. I dont collect crown tops so my experience is really with old green glass in the 1850-80 range. Hope this helps ,B


I have owned a new tumbler from the Jar Doctor for the last 10 years, but I still haven't used it (too many surgeries.) I am ordering the pulley belts and the manuel now.
I usually go with the slower RPMS, even with my sodas. I once tumbled a pontiled A.P. Smith, it took 6 weeks. I taped the embossing with duct tape until the end when I did the final polishing tumble. Yeah, I had dug 8 Charles Clarks and one A.P. SMITH . One yellow /amber Charles Clark broke while tumbling (bummer!)
I am lazy, so I have a reverse on my motor.
Tumble mostly 1840 -70 bottles. I have tumbled flint glass and they were a little harder. Never tumbled anything past 1870-80.
I do using different cutting grits to hasten the process, but very carefully.
Your being able to do the math in regards to revolutions is smart and is dizzing (for me.)
I have about 15 mustards that I am going to start tumbling for practicing until I feel confident about doing it again.
Here is the picture of the 6 week tumbled light cobalt A.P. SMITH.
Thanks for the email, it was helpful.
opmustard


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## ROBBYBOBBY64 (Mar 15, 2021)

opmustard said:


> I have owned a new tumbler from the Jar Doctor for the last 10 years, but I still haven't used it (too many surgeries.) I am ordering the pulley belts and the manuel now.
> I usually go with the slower RPMS, even with my sodas. I once tumbled a pontiled A.P. Smith, it took 6 weeks. I taped the embossing with duct tape until the end when I did the final polishing tumble. Yeah, I had dug 8 Charles Clarks and one A.P. SMITH . One yellow /amber Charles Clark broke while tumbling (bummer!)
> I am lazy, so I have a reverse on my motor.
> Tumble mostly 1840 -70 bottles. I have tumbled flint glass and they were a little harder. Never tumbled anything past 1870-80.
> ...


The jar doctor tumbler speed controlled with a step pulley? I put a link to one with a picture
ROBBYBOBBY64.


			https://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Die-Casting-V-groove-4-step/dp/B00004RAO1/ref=asc_df_B00004RAO1/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167151490548&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14390757618879264772&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003484&hvtargid=pla-500503160312&psc=1#


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## brent little (Mar 15, 2021)

I thought about building also BUT really dont have the expertise to pull it off. You probably have the skill level needed. Just a carpenter, lol


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## brent little (Mar 15, 2021)

opmustard said:


> I have owned a new tumbler from the Jar Doctor for the last 10 years, but I still haven't used it (too many surgeries.) I am ordering the pulley belts and the manuel now.
> I usually go with the slower RPMS, even with my sodas. I once tumbled a pontiled A.P. Smith, it took 6 weeks. I taped the embossing with duct tape until the end when I did the final polishing tumble. Yeah, I had dug 8 Charles Clarks and one A.P. SMITH . One yellow /amber Charles Clark broke while tumbling (bummer!)
> I am lazy, so I have a reverse on my motor.
> Tumble mostly 1840 -70 bottles. I have tumbled flint glass and they were a little harder. Never tumbled anything past 1870-80.
> ...


Glad to hear it was helpfull. I have had pitiful luck tumbling flint glass. It is way harder then the early stuff. You and I are about the same timeline as far as collecting.I also have a tough go doing quarts. had some success but its a trial.


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## brent little (Mar 15, 2021)

ROBBYBOBBY64 said:


> The jar doctor tumbler speed controlled with a step pulley? I put a link to one with a picture
> ROBBYBOBBY64.
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Die-Casting-V-groove-4-step/dp/B00004RAO1/ref=asc_df_B00004RAO1/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167151490548&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14390757618879264772&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003484&hvtargid=pla-500503160312&psc=1#


Yes thats it. Mine is at 1 second per revolution.


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## brent little (Mar 15, 2021)

opmustard said:


> I want to tumble a soda with intact iron on the pontil.
> My question is I want to first run 1200 grit, then polish the bottle.
> Can you successfully run the 1200 cutting grit with out removing the iron?
> How?
> ...


I have BUT covering it would be safe. I used a sticker I think it was a three address stickers. Worked great.


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## opmustard (Mar 15, 2021)

ROBBYBOBBY64 said:


> The jar doctor tumbler speed controlled with a step pulley? I put a link to one with a picture
> ROBBYBOBBY64.
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Die-Casting-V-groove-4-step/dp/B00004RAO1/ref=asc_df_B00004RAO1/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167151490548&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14390757618879264772&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003484&hvtargid=pla-500503160312&psc=1#


I am not sure about the Jar Doctors system yet. I am emailing him now to receive my manuel and my pulleys.
Motor RPMS have a part in the speed, size and maybe weight of your canister as well. I think from personal experience that pulley size and belt length have the greatest impact on the speed performance.
I would sent up my canisters and the pulleys and belt length to either speed up or slow down the RPMS.
Used about six different roller tables plus my regular table as needed for whatever I was tumbling. Tumbled large cathedral pickles (never anything larger) to paper thin O/P meds. Tumbled a lot for friends and I used to sell a lot of bottles that sold for a higher price tumbled.
Hope this helps, its really not that hard once you get a basic tumbler going the way you want it. Seen so many different tumbling set ups and they all worked, I was amazed.
opmustard


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## ROBBYBOBBY64 (Mar 16, 2021)

opmustard said:


> I am not sure about the Jar Doctors system yet. I am emailing him now to receive my manuel and my pulleys.
> Motor RPMS have a part in the speed, size and maybe weight of your canister as well. I think from personal experience that pulley size and belt length have the greatest impact on the speed performance.
> I would sent up my canisters and the pulleys and belt length to either speed up or slow down the RPMS.
> Used about six different roller tables plus my regular table as needed for whatever I was tumbling. Tumbled large cathedral pickles (never anything larger) to paper thin O/P meds. Tumbled a lot for friends and I used to sell a lot of bottles that sold for a higher price tumbled.
> ...


Thanks for your expertise opmustard. The Biggest pickle jar you tumbled was how big? Thanks for your time buddy.
ROBBYBOBBY64.


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## ROBBYBOBBY64 (Mar 16, 2021)

brent little said:


> Glad to hear it was helpfull. I have had pitiful luck tumbling flint glass. It is way harder then the early stuff. You and I are about the same timeline as far as collecting.I also have a tough go doing quarts. had some success but its a trial.


Flint glass is so hard. Finer grit for a longer time i think might help. I polish absolute black granite it is the hardest stone to polish I run into. You have to use a fine grit.. too coarse and all it does is cause more pitting. Just my experience. Maybe a couple of those rubber tile spacers tossed in might help keep the shock down. Have you ever seen anyone or have you used them before.
ROBBYBOBBY64.


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## opmustard (Mar 16, 2021)

ROBBYBOBBY64 said:


> Thanks for your expertise opmustard. The Biggest pickle jar you tumbled was how big? Thanks for your time buddy.
> ROBBYBOBBY64.


Your welcome. if you ever have anymore questions, please just ask.
The largest cathedral pickle was 13 inches tall, but somewhat narrow. I used a 10 inch pvc sch 80 homemade canister, everything else came Wayne Lowery (accept the copper.).
Opmustard


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## ROBBYBOBBY64 (Mar 16, 2021)

opmustard said:


> Your welcome. if you ever have anymore questions, please just ask.
> The largest cathedral pickle was 13 inches tall, but somewhat narrow. I used a 10 inch pvc sch 80 homemade canister, everything else came Wayne Lowery (accept the copper.).
> Opmustard


10 inch pvc! That's huge. I do 4 inch. Lol!
I gotta get up to speed.
ROBBYBOBBY64.


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## opmustard (Mar 16, 2021)

ROBBYBOBBY64 said:


> 10 inch pvc! That's huge. I do 4 inch. Lol!
> I gotta get up to speed.
> ROBBYBOBBY64.


Only if you are going to tumble enough bottles that are big enough to warrant the cost.
I know that the sch 80 10" pvc pipe isn't cheap. Not sure about the cost of all the other stuff (stopples, polish, cutting grits, etc.)
Tumbled about 25 or so cathedrals for friends and my own add another 15. That made it worth it. When I realized that I wasn't going to be using it, sold it and broke even on my cost.
Hawai'i has a lot of hutches, crown tops, small meds, etc. 3' to 6" were my main size canisters. Sometimes I used my 8" canisters. Even used my 6' canisters on Hawai'ian whiskeys.
On the mainland, I tumbled only older sodas and mineral waters, 6" canisters was the size I used and still use.
Do you use cutting grits? How do you handle bubbles and the dreaded postones?
opmustard


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## ROBBYBOBBY64 (Mar 16, 2021)

opmustard said:


> Only if you are going to tumble enough bottles that are big enough to warrant the cost.
> I know that the sch 80 10" pvc pipe isn't cheap. Not sure about the cost of all the other stuff (stopples, polish, cutting grits, etc.)
> Tumbled about 25 or so cathedrals for friends and my own add another 15. That made it worth it. When I realized that I wasn't going to be using it, sold it and broke even on my cost.
> Hawai'i has a lot of hutches, crown tops, small meds, etc. 3' to 6" were my main size canisters. Sometimes I used my 8" canisters. Even used my 6' canisters on Hawai'ian whiskeys.
> ...


I never worry about the cost. I have a dozen friends that are plumbers. I'm sure they have a piece i can take. I thought about bubbles. That's scary to open a bubble that isn't open yet. I have not tumbled anything that did than. I did have a bubble open on the inside. It got silt into the opening and I couldn't wash it out all the way. No biggie. I always thought if I was going to tumble a bottle with a bubble close to the surface i could use CA mix with stone dust. It can be removed with acetone or heavy duty paint stripper. Do you ever have problems with the silt of the tumbling getting into spots you can't get out? Like around an applied lip.  I am a work in progress. You obviously are more experienced.  I am a fast learner.  Thanks again.
ROBBYBOBBY64.


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## opmustard (Mar 16, 2021)

ROBBYBOBBY64 said:


> I never worry about the cost. I have a dozen friends that are plumbers. I'm sure they have a piece i can take. I thought about bubbles. That's scary to open a bubble that isn't open yet. I have not tumbled anything that did than. I did have a bubble open on the inside. It got silt into the opening and I couldn't wash it out all the way. No biggie. I always thought if I was going to tumble a bottle with a bubble close to the surface i could use CA mix with stone dust. It can be removed with acetone or heavy duty paint stripper. Do you ever have problems with the silt of the tumbling getting into spots you can't get out? Like around an applied lip.  I am a work in progress. You obviously are more experienced.  I am a fast learner.  Thanks again.
> ROBBYBOBBY64.


Your plummer friends are saving you a lot of $.
I hate the grit that gets into those impossible, uncleanable areas. When I can, apply some resin in those areas and avoid the messes (I surfed my whole life, so plenty of free resin.)
Hate it when a copper piece gets stuck in the bottle, o/ps can be a problem area.
Again, plenty of resin, so I used (not always) to help cover a bubble or worse a potstone.
opmustard


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## ROBBYBOBBY64 (Mar 16, 2021)

opmustard said:


> Your plummer friends are saving you a lot of $.
> I hate the grit that gets into those impossible, uncleanable areas. When I can, apply some resin in those areas and avoid the messes (I surfed my whole life, so plenty of free resin.)
> Hate it when a copper piece gets stuck in the bottle, o/ps can be a problem area.
> Again, plenty of resin, so I used (not always) to help cover a bubble or worse a potstone.
> opmustard


Windshield repair kit. Works great. You can touch up a small spot that didn't clean up so well.
ROBBYBOBBY64.


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## hemihampton (Mar 17, 2021)

When I'm done tumbling the blackish residue can end up in small pitts ect., ect.,. To clean that out I then dip bottle into plastic tub of Muaratic Acid that is highly diluted with about 75%-90% Water. Let it sit a minute or 2, Shake it around & then rinse out. Comes out Clean with no more Blackish or any other Residue. You might have to use a bottle brush in neck or bottle to help you out but I usually dont need to unless a heavy build up in neck area. Try it, You'll like it. LEON.


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## ROBBYBOBBY64 (Mar 17, 2021)

hemihampton said:


> When I'm done tumbling the blackish residue can end up in small pitts ect., ect.,. To clean that out I then dip bottle into plastic tub of Muaratic Acid that is highly diluted with about 75%-90% Water. Let it sit a minute or 2, Shake it around & then rinse out. Comes out Clean with no more Blackish or any other Residue. You might have to use a bottle brush in neck or bottle to help you out but I usually dont need to unless a heavy build up in neck area. Try it, You'll like it. LEON.


I use the same method with muriatic acid.  I always neutralize with a little baking soda. It leaves a white haze in hard to reach spots. This i rinse out with vinegar. I hate the really tight spots around the lip. No way for the tumbling grit to get into these spots. There is always haze left. Mineral oil to the rescue. Lol!
ROBBYBOBBY64.


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## hemihampton (Mar 18, 2021)

If you don't fill the bottle with enough copper (or outside)you can run into a problem with the neck not getting clean enough. just my opinion. others may vary.  Plus I almost always do both inside & outside at the same time. LEON.


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## ROBBYBOBBY64 (Mar 18, 2021)

hemihampton said:


> If you don't fill the bottle with enough copper (or outside)you can run into a problem with the neck not getting clean enough. just my opinion. others may vary.  Plus I almost always do both inside & outside at the same time. LEON.


I never did both sides at the same time before. I do the inside and then the outside. I always worry if done simultaneously one would be finished before the other and cause excessive wear unnecessary.  My stuff is usually worse on the inside. I also don't have the super system some have. My bottles inside the neck aren't done as well as the rest of the inside. I think the smaller diameter in the neck area doesn't tumble as well. I used to be totally against using a tumbler but I have since reconsidered. You save so much time doing it all at once. I would try it first on a common one til I get the hang of it. I have plenty of volunteers.  
I just need a better and bigger tumbler. Thanks for your expertise buddy.
ROBBYBOBBY64.


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