# removing rust in tin



## epgorge

What about tin? Any beer can collectors out there who can tell me what is the best way to stop the rust in this tin lid I have? This is a one of a kind (so far) as it dates from 1860's and most of these, I suspect, have perished from rust and rot. This was found in an attic up on the rafters along side a clay jar.Ep


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## hemihampton

I've cleaned hundreds, Maybe 1,000+ old rusty Beer Cans since 1975 with Oxalic Acid. Also known as Barkeepers Friend & ZUD in hardware stores but that stuff is weak & diluted compared to the stuff I use which is 99% pure white Crystaline acid.  Homemade Citrus acid made from Vinegar & Lemon juice will also work. LEON.


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## epgorge

Thanks for the cleaning advice. I assume this will not damage any metal. This tin may be a one of a kind and I don't want to hurt it. After I remove the rust, what do I do to prevent it from coming back. The embossed part of the lid isn't too bad but the back side is much more rusted. Would WD-40 work to prevent further rusting. Thanks for responding.Joel


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## hemihampton

To Prevent coming back you could lightly clear coat with a flat clear. LEON.


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## epgorge

A clear? Poly urethane? Would that not damage its rarity as an antiquity? This is a rare tin top that was found next to a clay jar sitting on a rafter in an early 1800 home, in Vermont. AJ Green of Highgate is an early name in VT Bottles and this product "Dr. Henry's Electric Ointment" has been listed as a bottle only. That listed bottled product would precede this tin as the tin is embossed with the "act of congress in the year 1858" (see picture). This clay jar with tin top and its ingredients were marketed by AJ Green's Son, also known as Dr. G.S. Green of the "blood purifier" fame of Enosburg Falls, VT. So, I do believe this is not only rare but one of a kind in, that, it is not written about (to my knowledge) and I would doubt many would have survived being made of tin. I am quite concerned about ruining a piece of history by using Urethane. Any further feelings on this issue? I would be glad to hear about it. But, then again, I am just an old man who, according to my children, "worries about everything".


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## andy volkerts

Hello Joel. I believe if this is as rare as you think it is, I would use just the barkeepers friend for cleanup, as the rust is not really bad. And as for keeping the rust off it when done, I would go to a pharmacy and get those packets they use to keep pills dry, put the packets and your lid into a sealed container such as Tupperware. I would not put anything on the tins surface....jmho....Andy


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## epgorge

andy volkerts said:
			
		

> Hello Joel. I believe if this is as rare as you think it is, I would use just the barkeepers friend for cleanup, as the rust is not really bad. And as for keeping the rust off it when done, I would go to a pharmacy and get those packets they use to keep pills dry, put the packets and your lid into a sealed container such as Tupperware. I would not put anything on the tins surface....jmho....Andy


I like that idea. Thanks Andy and thanks Leon for your input, I will take your advice on some other tin products I have that are more commonly found. Rarity doesn't necessarily mean it is valuable. I have a Shull's Electric Hair Restorer, that is one of a kind and no listing for it. It must have been marketed to women back in the late 1800's as it has a picture of a woman embossed on the side (I traded for it, with some poison bottle(s) to Jim, here of this thread and a fellow northerner from upstate NY). If no one knows about an item and it hasn't been written about, it remains anonymous. I like it and know I have something that so far I have not seen another one in existance. We are but caretakers of these antiquities. Value has little to do with it when it is a labor of love. Thanks for the responses you two. That is what makes this place special. Responses and knowledge for future generations to consider.Joel


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## bamabottles

While i am no expert on metal items, i can tell you what i did with my 1912 alabama porcelain car tag... it had some rust spots and i was afraid to overclean... as this is first year of issue and it is a really low registration number (#20).  After discussing with several tag people, i just lightly cleaned the surface rust off (was in a dump so had quite a bit) and left what would not come off easily.  Then soaked in oil, let dry wrapped in an old towel and then put up in my safe where i have a moisture absorbing canister.  I would probably use gun oil on your lid... a very light coating over the entire piece with a little extra on the rust spots after a very light brushing, maybe with a toothbrush.  I wouldn't even take all the rust off at this point...  heck it gives a story too.  Gun oil will halt any further rust and that is really your objective anyway.  A light coating of oil prevents gun parts from rusting so it should work on this...  Moisture absorber is probably not necessary, since the gun oil should prevent further rusting.


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## hemihampton

The flat clear is 100% visually un noticeable. Nobody would even know it was there. Unlike the high gloss shiny clear most people use & is very obvious. In the old days it was the older nitrocellulose clear that turned yellow over time. If you want to preserve it's originality do not restore it or clean it at all. leave as is. LEON.


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## hemihampton

Some rusty old beer cans before & after cleaning. LEON.


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## epgorge

hemihampton said:
			
		

> Some rusty old beer cans before & after cleaning. LEON.


Makes sense, Leon. Thank you. Joel


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