# Basic bottle cleaning



## blobbottlebob (Apr 6, 2009)

Hey everybody,
I am going to give free bottle cleaning advice! I want to share some information with you about how I clean bottles. There are no trade secrets here. For many of you experts, this is too remedial. Sorry about that. I'm hoping that it will help at least some collectors. 

SKIP THIS GREY PART IF YOU HATE LECTURES!
A little about my cleaning philsophy. I believe that a little sickness may be part of a bottle's unique history. Sure, I love to get mint examples. However, trying to make a damaged bottle mint often results in it being damaged differently (in my opinion). I do not use any power tools, acid, vinegar, oils, sealants, or tumblers. I just get the dirt and stains off the best I can. I give that dirt hell! (And then I live with the rest). I actually enjoy seeing a rainbow of irridescence on the surface of an antique bottle. I also love the faint curved lines of etching found on a privy bottle. I prefer this matted patena to the glossy oiled surface of an over-cut, over-tumbled piece. I believe that I am the caretaker to the history of the bottles that I own and that it is my job to do no harm to them. I should preserve their history (to the best of my ability). I should let them sparkle in the sun on the window sill. Okay. I got carried away. I'm off of the soap-box. On to cleaning.

SUPPLIES. This first picture shows the materials I use. The cleaning agent I prefer is some type of lime remover. I have heard raves about denture cleaners (but I have never tried them). For the surface of a bottle, I typically use two things. A scotch brite pad and an old toothbrush. I have never scrubbed hard enough to damage a bottle with either. For the inside, I use cut copper wire. It comes from heavy gauge wiring (like 12 or 14 gauge). The coating is stripped off of the wire and it is cut into small pellets (maybe 1/8 inch long). This can be done with a hand held wire cutter but there are machines that can accomplish this as well. Basically, people who tumble bottles use this type of copper.

THE METHOD. I add approximately a pound of copper to the inside of a bottle and then I squirt in the lime remover. I use enough of the lime stuff to moisten the copper without drowning it. For some bottles with an intact closure, you can simply re-seal the bottle with the closure. For others, I put in a rubber plug (or seal the top off with my thumb - make sure to rinse your hand promptly if you do this). Next, I proceed to shake the copper-lime mixture over the dirty, stained area. If I want to get really serious, I put the dirty side down away from my body. Then, I shake it violently up and down (like I'm shaking a martini mixer). This gives some pretty good contact with the stain and can usually remove almost any kind of dirt, scum, algae, residue, and stain. It does not always get the heavy etched on mineral deposits. However, it will usualy lighten them to a less offensive whitish color.

This first picture shows the supplies. If you had to buy it all, I'm guessing it cost you ten bucks (plus whatever copper costs nowadays). The copper lasts a very long time. Over time, though, it does get slightly rounded by all the contact with the glass and does not 'scrub' as well anymore.


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## blobbottlebob (Apr 6, 2009)

Now. For some actual glass. I took two different dirty bottles. One (the hutch at left) came from the ground. The other (the crown) came from a river. Both were quite dirty. They were found a long time ago (and sat there waiting for me to do something with them). Here is the before shot.


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## blobbottlebob (Apr 6, 2009)

And now for some results. These results are completely typical of what you would see using this method. No bottles were harmed in this process. The bottles still have all of the scratches and wear that they had when I aquired them. But wow - do they ever look better!


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## blobbottlebob (Apr 6, 2009)

Note that I also show a cleaned hutchinson stopper in the 'after' photo. To see how I did this, check out this link (on the forum). I find that a shiny stopper really adds something to a hutch!

https://www.antique-bottles.net/forum/Cleaning-Hutchinson-stoppers/m-196299/tm.htm

I actually further discuss this on another thread if you're interested.

https://www.antique-bottles.net/forum/The-Hutchinson-stopper/m-199654/tm.htm

I would love to learn other methods of getting bottles clean or other bottle cleaning secrets. If you don't mind sharing, let me now your tricks. Thanks, Bob


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## morbious_fod (Apr 6, 2009)

While I have tried Lime away, with varying results, I haven't tried cut copper yet. I do use scotch brite *non-scratch* sponges, which are the blue ones, and bar keepers friend on my acls. Don't try this if your acl is weak or crumbling, it'll take it right off. You just have to be a pretty good judge of what will clean up nice and what won't, of course if they are in that bad of a condition nearly any type of cleaning can cause problems.

 I have struggled with trying to get stains off of my bottles, esspecially on the inside, and will have to give the green scotchbrite a try on some of the embossed bottles, and definately will have to try the copperwire and lime away method sometime. Thanks.


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## blobbottlebob (Apr 6, 2009)

Hey Morbious,
 The copper works miracles on the inside. I've tried twisting and turning a bottle brush inside the mouth of a bottle with only slight cleaning in the areas you can actually reach. The copper makes short work of anything that can be scrubbed off. Cleaning time for the above bottles was less than a minute each.


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## morbious_fod (Apr 7, 2009)

Yeah trying to get those brushes twisted just right is a hassle.


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## ktbi (Apr 7, 2009)

Thanks for the post BBB...I am trying this method next and soon...Like so many others - I have a mountain of glass to clean, I just need to get motivated. The before and after pictures do just that - get me motivated.......Ron


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## blobbottlebob (Apr 7, 2009)

Cool Ron. Let me know how it goes.


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## morbious_fod (May 3, 2009)

Sir you are an inspiration and your advise saved me a lot of hassle, and some cussing points, with a particularly tough bottle cleaning job last night. On Friday at the Grey, TN bottle show I was lucky enough to come across two quite rare bottles from this area. The first was a Norton, VA Pepsi-Cola Fountain Syrup bottle, which cleaned up fine, and the other was a Princeton WVA Pepsi-Cola Fountain Syrup bottle what was in georgous condition outside; however, had what appeared to be tree sap or maybe sixty year old dried up turpentine in it. There was a big glob in the bottom and I spent most of Friday night ruining two brushes trying to get the mess out.

 I remembered on Saturday that I had bought some copper to use for cleaning a few weeks ago; however, I hadn't tried it yet. After about five hours of cutting copper with a wire cutter, I was ready to give it a try. Of course the eniviable happened some of the copper got trapped in the goop; however, after about fifteen to twenty minutes of shaking I was able to get all of the goop out of the bottle. Now it sits proudly on my shelf in all its near mint glory.

 I was afraid that with the amount of time it took to clean the bottle that maybe the copper might have left some scratches on the bottle; however, if there are I can't see them. Thanks for the advice, the next one on the list for this treatment is a Pocahontas, VA Spur cola with a mineral deposit ring around the inside. I'm hoping that my luck will hold out.


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## Just Dig it (May 4, 2009)

I use these http://www.tanisinc.com/tb_construction.php#details
 |

 some come with just a giant wire handle. and sturdy bristles..


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## blobbottlebob (May 5, 2009)

Sweet Morbious. I'm glad it worked. Hopefully, your copper came through cleanly as well. The copper can be used for a very long time.


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## glass man (May 5, 2009)

WILL BB"S WORK? MAY BE TWO ABRASIVE  AND NOT AS SOFT. THE DENTURE CURE DID NOTHING AS FAR AS I COULD TELL AND PUT TWO TABS AND LEFT IT OVER NIGHT.


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## morbious_fod (May 5, 2009)

> ORIGINAL:  blobbottlebob
> 
> Sweet Morbious. I'm glad it worked. Hopefully, your copper came through cleanly as well. The copper can be used for a very long time.


 
 Amazingly enough they appear to have come through it ok. The Pocahonta, va Spur didn't come completely clean; however, that white stain line is very much muted, which is better by far.


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## beendiggin (May 5, 2009)

I've always had pretty good luck with BB's and Cascade or some other granulated detergent, but I recently cut up some copper wire and it does work well.  One piece of advice, I have broken the thin shoulders out of some bottles....so be careful with the weight of the copper mixture and the shaking action.  Generally it is a really effective and simple method to clean the inside of almost any bottle.   Great post!   This forum is a great resource .


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## Stardust (May 5, 2009)

Thank you kindly f[]r sharing!
    star


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## ncbred (May 20, 2009)

Thanks very much for sharing this!!!


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## CreekWalker (Jun 12, 2009)

Thanks very much!, that's the kind of pertinent info , we newby bottle cleaners need. I have a thirty year accumalation of bottles. The collection is as clean a condition as a good soaking in soapy water ,plus bleach can get, still many of them are hopelessly inside stained , although outwardly very clean.  Some of the bottles are in need of this kind of cleaning. Rick


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## blobbottlebob (Jun 12, 2009)

Hey Rick (and everyone else that has replied),
 Nice to see that this is helping at least some collectors get their glass sparkling. Somebody should post another before / after shot. Maybe I will when I get the chance.


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## RICKJJ59W (Jun 12, 2009)

I shake cat litter or salt inside bottles that arnt to badly stained in side,But thats a once and done method.I am going to have to try the copper bits.Its like a poor mans tumbler []


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## cyberdigger (Jun 12, 2009)

here we are:

 https://www.antique-bottles.net/forum/Cutting-Copper-Wire%25%25%25/m-170604/tm.htm


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## RED Matthews (Jun 12, 2009)

Hi blobbottlebob  Now this is the type of thing and sharing that makes this Forum really standout in my book.  The respect and thanks are just automatic and dynamic, thanks.
 RED Matthews


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## RED Matthews (Jun 12, 2009)

Hi antiquenut;  My reason for posting is to ask about how you would go about searching for an early post like this.  I am still learning how to take advantage of this Forum treasure trove.  Please PM me with your advise or use bottlemysteries@yahoo.com. 
 I too am an antique nut - I started about 75 years ago, so I could rattle on this subject for a few hours.  I have things like a 47 MG TC to a kerosene three light chandaler that I brought home from an auction when I was nine.   Thanks RED Matthews


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## CreekWalker (Jun 12, 2009)

I believe the only issue to using copper , as mentioned previously is the weight. The bottle needs close inspection for any small crack or bullseye, or a thin shoulder also on early bottles. But I will give it a try, I have about a hundred pounds of cooper wire and cable , accumalated one -two pieces at a time from creeks. I'm going to cut up the thicker cable, and sell the other at $1.60 per lb. It is my experience that any over ethusiastic cleaning is very bad to fragile glass.Rick


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## GuntherHess (Jun 12, 2009)

yes , glass can be paper thin in early bottles, especially ones with large bubbles.
 I have broken a few while cleaning...doh!


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## ncbred (Jun 15, 2009)

Here is a before and after of a Pabst beer.  The before picture was cleaned with a bottle brush, bar keepers friend and soaked in warm water and dish detergent.  As you can see it didn't get that clean.








 Here is the bottle after using cut copper and Lime Away.  Shook it for about 15 minutes total.  The old encrusted beer eventually came completely off.  The brush and Bar Keepers Friend would not touch it.  Still has some light hazing on the inside but nothing like it was.


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## riverdiver (Jun 30, 2009)

Hi blobbottlebob,

 New member riverdiver here, thanks for the tips on cleaning. I too had tried all sorts of different methods with minimalist results even to the point of keeping scotch brite pads and bottle brushes with me while I dive and cleaning them u/w as I found them, due to alot of the black muck turning rock hard upon contact with air. Your method of using bar keeps friend with copper shot is awesome, I wish I had joined sooner and learned this method. When I dive, I use a rubber coated steel glasses rack usually found in commercial dishwashers. The rack holds and protects up to 25 bottles and is supported by a 50 lb lift bag with a 4 point attachment. I have used this method for 25 years with great success, of course now I have a cellar full of great dirty glass. Since all it has done this summer here in NH is rain, I am going to employ your method and I will post the results. Thanks for giving up the ghost about cleaning glass.


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## photolitherland (Jul 5, 2009)

It is taking absolutely forever to cut the copper wire with cutters. It will probably take me 5 hours to get a lb of it. uhg. Oh well, it will be worth it hopefully.


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## cyberdigger (Jul 5, 2009)

Even if you manage to cut just one pound, that's going to he extremely useful.. I've been using less than that over and over, cleaned dozens of bottles with it.. beats the hell out of a set of brushes!!


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## blobbottlebob (Jul 6, 2009)

Hey Riverdiver (Matt),
 Great to hear that you're having some luck. The copper will make short work of algae and underwater gook. I can't imagine trying to clean every bottle on a dive. It's usually long enough just getting there in and out.

 To Photolitherland,
 Sorry about the pain cutting copper. I was lucky enough to see somebody selling it (for use in a tumbler) at a bottle show. I think I bought about 5 pounds (ten years ago) and I still have a bunch left. Charlie was right - it goes a long long way.


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## delphinis (Jul 25, 2009)

*Hi Everyone*
*I was wondering what size or gauge copper wire should I use and how small lengthwise should I cut it?  Also is there any place where I can buy it already cut up? Any help would be greatly appreciated.*

*Anthony*


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## delphinis (Jul 25, 2009)

Hi Everyone 
 Please disregard my previous post. I got the information i needed from Blobbottlebob's original post. I have a bad habit of asking questions first then reading the information. 

 Anthony


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## pinkshovel (Sep 10, 2009)

Bob! Ya ever have those DUH! moments? All this time I've been researching bottles, and SCRUBBING & SOAKING & SCRUBBING, I Never thought to look on this forum for how to clean the darn things!LOL C_an you use the lime away on the Outside of bottles?_ What about soda bottles _with ACL's?_ I was out yesterday to dig a spot for some bulbs....as I've mentioned in the ACL forum (newbie with 2 questions) I inherited parents home of 53 years. Well, my Dad used to make home brew, and I think I found a place where he buried bottles (why would he bury them?) Anyway, now I have bottles with a LOT of mud inside and uck and white stains outside. I'm dyin to see what they are, but I don't want to ruin them right out of the gate. So, as I said, I Knew I'd find more bottles and would want to keep some of them. Yep, I've been bit right in the, um pinkshovel. I can't wait to try the copper in the 16 oz bottles I have. I whittled my bottle brush handle skinny enough to use on the shorter ones, but I didn't have anything to reach the gunk in the tall ones. 
 Thank You BOB!!! I can reclaim my kitchen sink now. No more HOURS/Days of soaking. You are very kind to share!


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## KBbottles (Mar 16, 2010)

I've also had good results with fishtank gravel before, but copper wire sounds so much better.  Wish I could buy it precut already.


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## chosi (Mar 20, 2010)

You can buy the copper already cut from this site:
http://www.jardoctor.com/
 It's best to buy it at a bottle show so you don't have to pay the postage.

 Also, if the bottle is particularly fragile, I've heard of people using rice (uncooked).  It's much lighter than copper so it's gentler on the bottle.  I've never tried it myself.


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## blobbottlebob (Mar 20, 2010)

Nice link Chosi. That should work (especially if you can hook up at a show).


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## blobbottlebob (Mar 24, 2010)

Before . . .


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## blobbottlebob (Mar 24, 2010)

And after.


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## haelix (Mar 30, 2010)

If you want to drill copper wire you can use a cheep impact socket , they have a hole in the side that is just rite for your wire, just mate up the size socket and drill bit , put the socket in a vice ( dont forget safety glasses) and make pellets


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## SNDMNTBOY (May 11, 2010)

Has anyone tried those copper pellets you put in pellet guns?


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## chosi (May 11, 2010)

I can't tell from your photo, but off hand those look awfully large for bottle cleaning.
 Below is a photo of the copper you get from the Jar Doctor, next to a Quarter to show the relative size.


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## chosi (May 11, 2010)

Hey, while I've got my camera out...
 Here's what the copper looks like after about 3 years of use.  Besides being dirty, it's also a lot smoother with no sharp edges.
 Is it time for new copper?  I don't think my results are worse then when the copper was new, but it's hard to tell since any change would have been reeeeeeealy gradual.


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## donalddarneille (May 13, 2010)

> ORIGINAL:  SNDMNTBOY
> 
> Has anyone tried those copper pellets you put in pellet guns?


 

 Don't use 'em!!!!! Not only are they to large, but they are not real copper, just copper plate. The chemical reaction between the copper clad shot and the cleaning compounds has been known to create pressure inside the tubes, never heard of one blowing open yet, but can be dangerous for you and the bottle when you release the stoppels!

 Good luck with your tumbling adventures...... I've found buying clean bottles to start with really helps!    BEFORE:


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## donalddarneille (May 13, 2010)

And an after shot:


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## donalddarneille (May 13, 2010)

But if you're not careful you can knock the embossing around backwards!


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## BarbaraInCalif (May 13, 2010)

Nice Donald...what's your trick for getting the inside of rectangular bottles clean?  Seems like I tumble just the interiors forever and they still aren't right!

 Barbara


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## donalddarneille (May 14, 2010)

Hi Barbara, I usually just use cut copper with "RAYBRITE" polish (and a little water of course), being carefull to only put enough copper in so that I get lots of action in the neck area. What are you using?


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## BarbaraInCalif (May 14, 2010)

Thanks Donald.  First I had to look up Raybright...I see it is an aluminum oxide lapidary polish....do you know if it is similar or better than the alum polish Jr Doc. sells? 
 I've been using glass beads with 600 grit SiO for cleaning and the Jar Doc's Alum polish.  It's mainly the rectangular bottles' interiors that give me fits, so I've switched to copper just on those tumbling their interiors only in a big slow 10 inch canister.  I also pre/post clean or polish most interiors with bead media in the big canister too.  Happy to say that I'm finally pulling shiny bottles out of the canisters!

 Barbara


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## donalddarneille (May 14, 2010)

Good to hear that you are getting results. Why not post a few examples of your recent success' here? I'ld love to see how your bottles have come out. And slow is the way to go on the rectangular bottles. 

 I've never used any of the "Jar Dr.'s" products, so I couldn't say. The Raybright is just easy for me to buy at the Rock and Gem hobby store down the road. It produces excelent results, has very consistant quality,  and only cost me about $40 for a 5 pound package with no waiting or shipping charges.


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## Wangan (May 14, 2010)

> ORIGINAL:  BarbaraInCalif
> 
> Nice Donald...what's your trick for getting the inside of rectangular bottles clean?  Seems like I tumble just the interiors forever and they still aren't right!
> 
> Barbara


 
 I dont have a tumbler rig and I dont know this set up,but I have heard of people tumbling bottles end over end.Seems to me that would work well for the tight corners in square or rectangle bottles.I would think one would have to turn the bottle a might to get into opposing corners.If anyone has a picture of a set up like this,I would love to see it.Great post BBB! Very helpful!


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## ReCreations (Sep 3, 2011)

Cleaning out a whole mess of stuff during our recent move, I came across a buch of bottles my husband brought home while working on a construction site at the Buffalo NY sewer treatment plant on Squaw Island. I have not considered myself a collector until I realized the beauty of these gems from the past. So I want to thank all of the members of this forum for the generous sharing of your information and for sharing your love of this hobby if I may call it that. I now know how to properly clean these bottles. I also am getting a  feel for the history behind old bottles. There is so much to learn. Thank you!

 Debbie - a former Buffalo Gal


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## epackage (Sep 3, 2011)

> ORIGINAL:  chosi
> 
> Hey, while I've got my camera out...
> Here's what the copper looks like after about 3 years of use.  Besides being dirty, it's also a lot smoother with no sharp edges.
> Is it time for new copper?  I don't think my results are worse then when the copper was new, but it's hard to tell since any change would have been reeeeeeealy gradual.


 I say it's time for a change...Jim


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## Wheelah23 (Sep 3, 2011)

> ORIGINAL:  ReCreations
> 
> Cleaning out a whole mess of stuff during our recent move, I came across a buch of bottles my husband brought home while working on a construction site at the Buffalo NY sewer treatment plant on Squaw Island. I have not considered myself a collector until I realized the beauty of these gems from the past. So I want to thank all of the members of this forum for the generous sharing of your information and for sharing your love of this hobby if I may call it that. I now know how to properly clean these bottles. I also am getting aÂ  feel for the history behind old bottles. There is so much to learn. Thank you!
> 
> Debbie - a former Buffalo Gal


 
 Welcome to the forum Debbie! You've chosen a wonderful hobby (addiction). We're all extremely handsome, intelligent, rich, modest people here, but don't be intimidated from posting... [] Care to show us come of your bottles?

 As for this cleaning thread... Now I realize why I am getting such lackluster cleaning results. I'm using 4 gauge wire! Way too small to get the job done. I guess I'll go get some thicker wire and try again.


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## Pinzel (Oct 27, 2011)

I have been using copper chunks from wire i purchased at the scrap yard.The #1 stripped shiny copper is cheaper than your hardware store or walmart.Anyway i bought a big heavy set of linemans pliers on ebay to easily cut the chunks.It is very time consumng.I sit at my computer reading while i chip this stuff into the bucket.(it goes flying sometimes is why i have a bucket) I use chlorine comet and bleach mixture along with this copper chunkage.The mixture is a wet paste type thing.The copper swirls around and cleans about all from inside anything.It is manual labor for sure,sometimes it takes 15 minutes per bottle of shaking .It does wonders and almost seems to remove some "sickness" from them.        its cheap,fairly safe,works for me.


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## suzanne (Oct 27, 2011)

Actually if your just shaking the bottles by hand you can just use sand.  I can't imagine buying expensive copper and going to the trouble of cutting into teeny pieces.  I use sand sometimes.  Works great. Cheap.  No cutting up into pieces.  Don't scratch either.  You can't generate enough force by hand shaking to do anything but get the gunk out.


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## suzanne (Oct 27, 2011)

I just wanted to say there is an exception to the last post I did.  If your bottle has very thin glass shaking with sand and water might generate enough force to break it I think.


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## blobbottlebob (Oct 27, 2011)

> If your bottle has very thin glass shaking with sand and water might generate enough force to break it I think.


 Yea. You can easily break the thin corners with the copper as well. You definitely want to be careful with strong shaking on a delicate bottle with thin corners.

 The advantage to the copper over sand is that the copper (while heavy and sharp enough to 'scrub' the glass) is not hard enough to scratch the surface. Sand has glass particles in it. (Glass is made of melting sand). This is as hard as the bottle and can leave scratches.


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## Gromit0299 (Nov 12, 2011)

Thanks so much for this newbie tutorial, Bob.  I have some nice common bottles that someone here on the forum gave me, one being a Schnecks Pulmonic that looks quite cool.   I'm glad there's a relatively inexpensive and easy way to clean them, other than having to invest in someone tumbling them, or investing in a tumbler.


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## blobbottlebob (Nov 19, 2011)

It was my pleasure Gromit. I have many many dirty bottles. I usually don't get around to cleaning them until I'm about to dispose of them (one way or another).


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## thewrit (Dec 12, 2011)

Is this just for the inside,or did I miss something.


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## blobbottlebob (Dec 12, 2011)

No. You pretty much got it right Writ. On the outside, I usually just scrub with a scotch bright pad or a toothbrush. It's always the inside stains that have been harder to deal with (for me at least). And this is how I do it. If you have great ideas for getting off stubborn stains from the outside - feel free to post 'em (and I'll give them a try).


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## Ronjcoke (Jan 29, 2012)

Do you have any coca cola bottles for sale or trade?  I just joined this antique bottle forum yesterday and am looking for bottles/collectors to buy from or trade with.
 I was wondering if you might be able to help me locate other coca cola bottle collectors.  I live in Oak Ridge, Tennessee and am trying to collect
 all of the bottles (6, 6 1/2, Pat D, Dec 25 1923, Nov 16, 1915, Amber, and Aqua) for the 48 cities that produced them in Tennessee.  I have most of the bottles, the easier
 ones, and now I am down to around 50 of the more harder to find bottles.  I have found out that the best way to get these rare ones is to trade with other collectors.  I know
 that many collectors don't sell their duplicates but keep them to trade to other collector.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Please find below the Tennessee bottles I need.

 Thanks,
 Ronnie Jackson


       TN COCA COLA BOTTLE COLLECTION REVISED 01/27/2012     


 6 Â½ oz.


 PARIS

 SHELBYVILLE


 DEC. 25, 1923



 CLARKSVILLE

 COVINGTON

 DICKSON

 DYERSBURG

 FAYETTEVILLE

 HUMBOLT

 MILAN


 NOV. 16, 1915


 CLIFTON

 COLUMBIA

 COOPER HILL

 DYERSBURG

 HUMBOLT

 LEWISBURG

 LEXINGTON

 MARTIN

 MILAN

 PARIS

 PIKEVILLE

 TRACY CITY

 TRENTON


 AMBER



 CLEVELAND

 COOKEVILLE

 COPPER HILL

 DAYTON

 DICKSON

 LEWISBURG

 MCMINNVILLE

 MORRISTOWN

 PARIS

 PULISKI

 SOUTH PITTSBURG

 TRACY CITY

 UNION CITY

 WATERTOWN ?


 AQUA



 CHATTANOOGA

 CLARKSVILLE

 COPPER HILL

 COVINGTON

 DICKSON

 DYERSBURG

 JELLICO

 JOHNSON CITY

 LEXINGTON

 MEMPHIS

 MURPHREESBORO

 SHELBYVILLE

 SOUTH PITTSBURG

 TRACY CITY

 TRENTON

 TULLAHOMA


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## blobbottlebob (Jan 30, 2012)

Hey Ronnie,
 I'm not sure that you posted this in the right place, but I suppose it doesn't matter much if people still see it. You might want to try a new posting if you don't get any feedback in its own thread with a title like 'tennesee cokes wanted' or the like.


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## epackage (Jan 30, 2012)

> ORIGINAL:  blobbottlebob
> 
> Hey Ronnie,
> I'm not sure that you posted this in the right place, but I suppose it doesn't matter much if people still see it. You might want to try a new posting if you don't get any feedback in its own thread with a title like 'tennesee cokes wanted' or the like.


 Bob he's posted this in 5 seperate forums sections already....Jim


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## T D (Jan 30, 2012)

at least...


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## blobbottlebob (Jan 30, 2012)

> Bob he's posted this in 5 seperate forums sections already....Jim


 
 Well. At least his Tennessee cokes will be nice and clean (if he follows along with the rest of this post).


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## cyberdigger (Jan 30, 2012)

Hey he's doing free advertizing for our threads.. don't discourage him..! [8D]


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## cindysriley (Feb 18, 2012)

Thank you for the information.  I have inherited a bottle collection and they are all very dirty inside, one still has massive amounts of dirt inside....your advice will be very helpful when I get up the nerve to clean them!


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## blobbottlebob (Feb 18, 2012)

You're certainly very welcome Cindys. Best of luck with that project. What I usually do is clean them as I go - kind of. So, if I am going to sell one or show it off, I'll give it a good cleaning. Until then, many remain a bit dirty in the boxes.


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## cindysriley (Feb 18, 2012)

I would just love to display mine, I think I've caught the bottle bug, now I just have to learn EVERYTHING!!!!


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## cindysriley (Feb 18, 2012)

If you don't mind, I have a question.  I have a bottle that has a rat on it.  I love this bottle, but it has a spider cocoon on the inside.  It has a rusted cap on the bottle.  Can I remove this cap without hurting the bottle?  It will destroy the cap...


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## blobbottlebob (Feb 18, 2012)

If the cap still is solid, I think you can try to remove it carefully by prying at it from several different angles around the rim. This may allow you to preserve the cap. As long as you are not directly applying pressure to the rim of the bottle, you should not hurt the glass in the cap removal process. Once its off, the spider web stuff should rinse right out with water and a few swirls or shakes.


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## andy volkerts (Feb 18, 2012)

[]  You also might try spraying the cap or soaking it in wd 40 or another rust dissolvent  before trying to get it off


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## cindysriley (Feb 18, 2012)

Thank you!!!!!


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## dw3000 (Mar 4, 2012)

Is there are good way to remove rust and other stains from ACL's?


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## blobbottlebob (Mar 4, 2012)

Hey DW,
 The method described on this thread should work great for the insides. For the outside, be careful on the painted surfaces, they can be scrubbed off. Outside of that, you can use a scotch brite pad or a toothbrush. On the ACL area, I sometimes uses a product called gel-gloss. It is a non-abrasive polish. (This may not be approved by experts). It is VERY strong and will actually remove paint if you over apply / over scrub it. But a thin application with gentle polishing can do wonders. Hope that helps.


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## Sir.Bottles (Mar 9, 2012)

Thanx for your advise blobbottlebob. I works really well with my bottle collection. is this method safe for cleaning stoneware? well this kind a ridiculous though but I prefer my collection to be cleaned, outside & inside (even I' am  unable to see inside of a stoneware bottle).


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## blobbottlebob (Mar 9, 2012)

I have never tried it on the inside of a stoneware bottle. I have never been much of a clean freak, and if you can't see the dirt much, I'm okay with it. Plus, there might be a bit of authenticity in that inside stain. You can tell it is not a repro because it has the original 'as found' patena on the inside. However, having said that, I realize that other collectors, such as yourself Sir, may want to clean them. If you'd like, I might have something that I could experiment on. It should work just fine but I have one concern. That is, the copper works well on the glass because the glass is harder than the copper. Therefore, the copper doesn't easily scratch or damage it. If the glazing is as hard as glass, you're golden. But if it is softer, there is a risk that the copper would scuff up the finish - which in my humble opinion - is worse than dirt.


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## carobran (Mar 9, 2012)

> ORIGINAL: dw3000
> 
> Is there are good way to remove rust and other stains from ACL's?


 Use Bar Keepers Friend,make a thick paste with it and spread it on the lable.Let it sit for a little while then rub it into the label good,then wash it off and the stained/dirty ACL should be good as new.Make sure the label is not too deteriorated before you use it though.


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## hunting262 (Jul 22, 2012)

I do that similar but with steel bbs from my bb gun.


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## AntiqueMeds (Jul 22, 2012)

> steel bbs


 
 not a good idea since they rust.


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## Asterx (Aug 11, 2012)

Blobbottlebob, great post! I've been looking for a tutorial to manually clean haze with copper and this is fantastic. I've been getting excellent results and have found myself really enjoying going through my collection to clean bottles I was discouraged with. Its like unwrapping a christmas present every time I rinse and dry! Thanks again : )


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## Asterx (Aug 11, 2012)

I know you mentioned about one pound of copper per bottle, but with larger bottles like whiskeys do you get better results with more copper?


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## Asterx (Aug 12, 2012)

Has anyone notice a copper film coating some haze areas after shaking and rinsing? I'm trying The Works Extra Strength, I don't know if its that or just my vigorous shaking...


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