# more cleaned inks



## idigjars (Jan 6, 2008)

Here are a couple more inks from my collection I recently cleaned.  The lighter colors exhibit the most difference.  Paul


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## capsoda (Jan 6, 2008)

Hey Paul, Those are great inks. Rarely get colors down here. Mostly aqua or clear and alot of those big square 1920s-30s cobalts.


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## idigjars (Jan 6, 2008)

Hi Warren, thanks.  Meant to get back to you on the last two cokes to thank you, so.........thank you!   Paul


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## buzzkutt033 (May 12, 2008)

Hey Paul,

 any suggestions on how to remove 100 year old ink from the inside of a master ink?? I'm wondering if muriatic acid mix would work. thanx in advance


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## annie44 (May 12, 2008)

Nice job on those, Paul.  Beautiful colors!


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## cordilleran (May 13, 2008)

Muriatic (hydrochloric) acid is overkill and should be reserved for the most obstinate (iron stained) jobs. It thoroughly removes efflorescence or mineral deposits, but there are safer alternatives just as effective. Ink is not one of them. Should your future excavated bottles have a mineralized white "blush" phosphoric acid is just as effective without all the negative side effects to life and respiratory system. TSP (trisodium phosphate) is still a better alternative since it is readily available and generally used to clean masonry surfaces that will go uncoated. But I don't think your internal ink stains are so recalcitrant. Soaking in warm (room temperature) water with dishwashing detergent is a highly effective way to remove most stains, especially ink, since ink unless it is indelible is water soluable. Be careful not to place a glass object in water that is either much warmer or colder than the object itself. The sudden change in temperature may cause the glass -- which has been hermetically sealed in the earth for generations -- to crack. Let the glass soak overnight. I also understand that using denture cleaning tablets or powders when soaking bottles will yield good results. Still some ink residue after all this intense treatment? Paint stripper works wonders. In the final tally muriatic acid should be your last choice for removing anything but mineralized residue or revealing that sixty-million-year-old fossil from its calcarious nodule.


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## buzzkutt033 (May 13, 2008)

thanx cordilleran. I'll give your suggestions a try. I use denture tabs on a lot of different type problems and they have worked pretty well. I'll post before and after pix when finished. thanx again!

 p.s.  loved the use of " recalcitrant.

 Jim


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## vabottles69 (May 14, 2008)

[]  Thanks for all the great info !!!!!!!!  Will give a couple cleaning sudjestions a try, and let you know.  I use Lime away with some success--- I heard straight amonnia works well also, have you heard that?  
 Young digger learning and digging....Loving every min of it!!

 If you don't like it don't do it ...lol
 Thanks again to all.
 Jon


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## bunchesofbottles (May 14, 2008)

I don't know if everyone has a Family Dollar in the area, but I get Barkeeper's Friend, it's been around forever. It comes in a can like Comet, nonabrasive but removes everything. Rust, lime, calcium, ink.


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## GuntherHess (May 14, 2008)

I've had pretty good luck using bleach for ink and dye stains. Just dont mix it with other chemicals.


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## appliedlips (May 14, 2008)

Great job on the cleaning Paul.That one on the top is a killer color.


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