# Zam Buffing Compound works!



## S.C. Warner (Jan 23, 2005)

Hi Everyone. I'm kind of excited about passing this along. It really works great and I hope it can help everyone out. I sure have got a lot out of this site, so I'd at least like to contribute something. [] (maybe this hasn't been mentioned here, yet. Earlier I had mentioned BB's and then just saw that Whitelighting had posted that about a year ago [] ) But I just happened on this today after deciding to try the peroxide that Whitelighting suggested. I found out that works just fine. I still used my homemade coat hanger scrub brush but the peroxide got the stains inside the bottle. The outside was a different story. I think this might even appeal with those fortunate to have a tumbler and those who don't. The bottle was a 7 fluid Oz. amber ABM "Spike it-you'll like it." Soda. It had to be the grungiest bottle I have ever attempted to clean. It was in a wooden case of 24, (that I have no idea where I picked it up, just been meaning to get around toit someday.) Some of the other bottles are 50's 6 oz cokes, and Dr. peppers and stuff. I'm adding this because I'll probably ask in the newer bottles section about this bottle as I'm trying to find out more about it, so if you know anything about spike-it I wouldn't mind buying or trading for one better than this one. the yellow paint front label (see below) is pretty much gone. You can't see it in this picture, and I have a hard time seeing it with naked eye. The name Spike-it and bubbles were once there in what appears to be green letters. The bottle itself looked like it was frosted, or acid etched beyond repair. (I'm kicking myself for not taking before and after pictures because the result is amazing.) The painted label had like a black stain covering it.  I did soak it for a long time and gently worked at the black stuff, but those large letters on front were already gone, just ghosts now. I was ready to give up. I had mentioned using Zam compound in the bottle 'repair' thread when I did my own resin casting, and I was thinking about what I learned from the bottle 'tumbling' thread. So I decided what the heck. Let's take that, and what I've learned in last 25 years working as an artist/sculptor/jewelry maker doing work with wood , marble, semi-precious stones, glass, etc. etc. and apply it to antique bottles. (sorry this is so long, I really want to put it down right just in case it might help all of you. The technique might be improved, or...I hope this isn't old news to you) First , working in the sink, with warm soapy water, working away from the painted label and lettering. Wet sand the entire bottle very throughly (top to bottom) very fine grade (400-600) grit wet and dry sandpaper. (the black water-proof stuff you can get in any hardware store in the paint or auto section) This will take off the stain, but the luster will be dull (kind of like body work on a car, etc.) This is where the Zam (see below) comes in. I mounted a regular 4 inch felt buffing pad onto a cordless drill (for lack of table mounted spindle, which would allow better grip on work piece) Apply the Zam to the spinning pad (highest rpm a cordless can go) the pad will turn green. Then 'very' firmly hold bottle in one hand and buff completely. I literally watched this nasty frosted like amber bottle turn shiny and clear before my eyes. Zam (not a commercial, I hold no stock in company[]) was developed for Gold and Silver polish, but other trades swear by it as well. i know I've used it for going on 20 years now. (I've picked up some trade secrets along the way(as a wood carver, stuff.) I mentioned it in repair but had know idea it would work so well on the bottle itself. So I really want to pass this along because you really are a nice group.
 I will take some before and after pictures, i was just so happy with this that took these shots right here at my terminal (after helping kid all night with our 100th day of school year project, it's cute.) with the little web cam, that's my monitor showing web-cam program behind the cordless (third picture in collage) So the pictures aren't that great.
 Things I might recommend. Use a table mounted buffing wheel. That way you can hold onto the piece better. Practice, if you do decide to give Zam a try, on bottles that are not priceless. (I say this because, I have had slips of my own fault on marble or alabaster and had to fix my mistakes as a result.) But it's easy once you get the hang of it. And also very affordable, a 1 pound tube of Zam costs somewhere around $10.00 and will last years. It removes surface scratches and polishes. (That's why I think even those who tumble might want to try it to add to their finish.) I couldn't find the home page for Zam, but this one here tells some about it. http://tinyurl.com/54p8f  You know, I really hope you find this useful. I'm really sorry it is so long, if Moderator deletes I would understand. [] Thank you all for the great posts and being so helpful. Oh..yeah, on the back of the 'Spike-it' bottle one of the things in italics: "An Ideal Mixer, A Superb Beverage." (could not read any of this before the Zam.)
 best,
 sc


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## Trying not to break it (Jan 24, 2005)

hi s c,  i'm still trying to clean the bottle that i had trouble getting the cork out. i also use clothes hanger wires, i make a small hook in one end and wrap small strips of my husband's t-shirts around it then clamp it closed with pliers.  my husband got me some thiner wire i use to make real small ones with. i have soak my bottle in warm soapy water and bleach, amonia, listerine, and tonight after soaking it in clr for 4 days, took some bb's from my husband's shot gun shells in shook it till i couldn't shake it any more. the stain is still there. (i cleaned it with barkeepers friend too). below is a pic of a bottle that the inside is great, but out side is really bad. i dug this bottle about 20 years ago in the dirt basement of an old house in balt city. i hope to get some of the zam to try on the outside of this one. anything that will help clean a bottle is great. just keep experimenting (sp). thanks for info.   rhona


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## Trying not to break it (Jan 24, 2005)

the pic i hope


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## S.C. Warner (Jan 25, 2005)

> the pic i hope


 Hi Rhona! Yeah, the pic turned out fine. That's a real beauty. (I kind of like the aged looked it has.) Thanks for your reply. You know for the last couple days I have been trying to think what they call those green scrub pads for washing dishes (and it's funny cause not only do I use them here but I have had to hold down a couple dishwashing jobs , just to get my foot in the door, at times.) I like to use them on teflon, cause they don't scratch, you know? Anyway, that's what I like to use inside bottles using the same hanger-pliers crimping method. You are right about crimping them, that way it doesn't fall off. I don't think I mentioned this but you probably can get the Zam at any local Lapidary (Rock shop) supply store. Or sometimes art supply too. Most of your gold and silversmith's will also tell you where to find. You can get small tubes for couple dollars. And it's worth it just for jewerly and knick-knacks. 
 With the wet and dry paper, if you wet sand, start with a Med-fine grade and then go to fine or very fine. you don't have to throw your fine away, as it wears down to very fine. I wish you success on your projects, nice bottle!

 den.


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